Africa Overland 08

THE END!! (almost)

2008-09-13T09:04:00.000-07:00

13th Sept. Pretoria

2008-09-13T09:03:00.000-07:00

11th Sept Pietermaritzburg
The van went into the container yesterday. Lovely and clean and well tied down. We gave it a gentle pat before they closed the doors. Hope it gets to Sydney safely. They had made a mistake earlier and it was booked to go to Brisbane but we were able to change that in time. We had to ait for the customs inspection then longer for the container to arrive but managed to have it completed by 2pm. The staff at the warehouse who loaded it were very helpful and dropped us off at the Avis depot after .
We have hired a VW Polo to drive up to Joburg and will have a look at the Drakensburg Ranges on our way. They are meant to be spectacular. It is funny to be driving a small car after the van for so long.
South Africa is a very picturesque country where you cold spend months looking around nd the people are hospitable. Yet there is sch a divide etween the blacks and the whites with many of the whites still looking longingly back at the apartheid era. The problem is going to get bigger as time goes by.
13th Sept. Near Pretoria.
We met Ria & Len At Etosha NP and had a couple of good evenings together. During that time they insisted we visit them before we fly out. We arrived at their beautiful house yesterday, had a braai last night, visited one of these amazing shopping malls this country has in abundance this morning then spent the afternoon in the game reserve that borders their property. It was very fulfilling seeing many animals including a couple of meerkats, an animal we hadn’t seen up to now.
This will be the last post while in Africa but I want to do a final one back home giving a run down on the costs etc in doing a trip like this.

Safely into the Container

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8th Sept Salt Rocks

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6th Sept.
There just happened to be a Mozambique restaurant over the road from our camp site. Apart from Hamburg’s Portuguese restaurant we haven’t eaten out for some time. It was a very nice meal, good service in nice surroundings. Good reward for a day cleaning the van. You have no idea where the dust has worked its way, fortunately we seem to have the inside beaten and there’s just the outside to do.
So it’s all coming to an end. This part of the trip has been difficult at times,. I knew Africa would put added pressure on both of us and that it has, but we seem to be reaching the end with a better attitude than some times over the last 6 months. It will be good getting home though this trip has been quite an experience for us both. We were discussing today how travel like this necessitates a certain type of person: looking back at the ones we met along the way they all lack pretensions, are prepared to accept whatever happens and get as much as they can out of the different countries and cultures they are passing through. At Hamburg we met a bloke who lives in East London (south of Durban). He was saying he had a large RV sitting in Belgium that he tours Europe in when he goes there. He had travelled widely but missed a companion to share it with. He said I was lucky to have someone who loved travelling like we did. That I am.
Travel like this is not easy. In fact it is hard and stressful at times. Yet the satisfactions we have along the way make up for all the hardships. We will be asked what were the highlights, looking back I can’t think of any one thing that stood out above the rest. There has been so many but then that is what you get travelling through Africa. An amazing continent. So full of life yet laden down with corruption, Aids and lack of infrastructure. Things are improving on the latter with foreign aid, Aids is being fought in some countries, but corruption seems to be an ongoing problem.
8th Sept. Salt Rocks.
As expected, this week has been mucky with most of the time taken with organising the van’s shipment. On Friday we headed north of Durban to find a camp site to clean the van. We found a good one and got the work done. Then we had a phone call to say the customs had to site the carnet papers before they would arrange inspection prior to shipping. So it was back to Durban, where we thought we would spend the last 2 nights. However of the 2 places we went to one was closed and we couldn’t find the other one. We decided to head back up the north coast and spend the last 2 nights somewhere on the coast. So here we are, metres from the water overlooking what must have been old salt works but is now a massive swimming pool that has the waves breaking over the outer wall on a regular basis. The sea mist is heavy, swirling around the spotlights and leaving all surfaces dripping.

New Owner of my 5yr old Moroccan Shoes

2008-09-13T08:59:00.000-07:00

Hi,

2008-09-05T07:04:00.002-07:00

Two posts and a few photos.
Bye

Hi,

2008-09-05T07:04:00.001-07:00

5th Sept. Durban

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Hamburg. 3rd Sept.
The storm that we experienced the day we left Cape Town has followed us along the coast with devastating results. Agulhas, Mossel Bay, the next night we spent at Storms River. The national park has some lovely chalets there some built above the road with a panoramic view, others built just above the normal sea level. The latter had been pulverised by the massive seas and a couple had been washed off their footings. The huge seas had closed the walk to the Storms River mouth as was the footbridge across the river. Froth from the huge waves was over a metre deep, boulders covered the parking area washed up from the sea.
Yesterday we travelled a further 450kms east and ended up at this place called Hamburg. A little hamlet overlooking an estuary. We had heard about a good campsite from one of the printouts we obtained while in Nairobi. On arriving we noticed debris strewn everywhere. There were a couple of vans but they were close to the back of the allotment, against a hill. Water covered the flat area, we were soon to discover that the previous night, with a spring tide and strong winds added to the enormous seas, the water had risen and covered the whole camp site with up to 1.5 metres of water. Vans had been There was no warning, it was7pm, pitch dark as the water had covered all the power points.
We parked our van on a higher level next to the Portuguese Restaurant & bar.. The owner of the camp is Portuguese who wanted to drop out. He couldn’t have picked a lovelier place. There is a short walk along the estuary to the ocean where the surf still roared in.
5th Sept. Port Edward
In fact we stayed a second night, in Hamburg, it was so tranquil. That meant a long drive the next day to get within striking distance of Durban the following day as we needed to see the shipping Coy before the weekend. We travelled over 600kms mainly through the Transkei, a highly populated area with townships peppered over many of the hills. It was just like being back in East Africa with people walking along the roads again, fetching water in containers, and carrying everything on their heads. Port Edward is 160kms from Durban, a short drive, this may have been our last night on the road. While in Hamburg we began to clean the van up, get rid of all the dust in it. Australian Customs are very strict and I am aware it will have to be steam cleaned when we get to Sydney but the inside is so full of dust it’s going to be a major job getting rid of it. I think it will take at least 3 days.

30th August Cape Agulhas

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29th August. Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch is the centre of the Cape wine industry. A short distance from Cape Town it is also the 2nd oldest city in the country. We have been impressed with the SA wines, both in quality but also in price. In a supermarket not long after we entered SA they were selling off their ‘End of the line range’ for 10R a bottle. That’s $1.50AU. There is a wine shop a short distance from this camp site where excellent wines are going for $3-7 a bottle. What would you get for those prices in Australia? One has to control one’s self a bit with these prices, that as well as the good food here makes us think we won’t be bean stalks when we get back.
That’s another thing: the supermarkets here have a vast range of prepared foods on their shelves or in the warmers. I guess the Australian companies have looked into all this and deem the market isn’t there. I know it’s ideal if you’re living in a campervan.
I have always been a fan of Nelson Mandela and the struggle the ANC had to bring down apartheid, one of our must-dos was to go out to Robben Island where he was incarcerated for 18 years. While queuing up for tickets there was an announcement to say the sailings for today were cancelled. We thought it strange as the gale force winds of the day before had dissipated. Then we heard on the news tonight the catamaran hadn’t sailed the last week as there was a dispute with the builders of the sleek cat sitting next to the depot over the seaworthiness of the vehicle in rough weather. Slovenly building practises had caused the problem it seems. Perhaps it was a good thing we didn’t go.
Although the winds have dropped the rain is still hanging around and the forecast for Cape Town the next couple of days is for extreme conditions even talking about snow. If that happens overnight we will head on to Cape Agulhas, the most southern point on the continent and where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet.
We have finally picked an end date for this odyssey: The van goes on a ship bound for Sydney on 12th Sept out of Durban. We fly out on the 14th from Johannesburg. By that time we will have covered 50,000 kms since leaving Chennai over 15 months ago.
30th August. Cape Agulhas.
Whereas the Cape of God Hope gets al the glamour, Cape Agulhas IS the southern most point of the continent and the official point where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. We are in the camp site 30 metres from the Agulhas Lighthouse having the van rocked by gale force winds and the rain hitting us almost vertically. The light from the lighthouse passes over us every 3 seconds. I was afraid to raise the roof but a leak in the zipper has made us lift it at least until we go to bed. This gale appears to be the worst for at least 14 years to have hit Cape Town and all shipping has been advised to stay in harbour. The lady at the fish & chip shop said that these conditions were unusual. The plumes of spray off the waves are quite incredible being forced back on itself. We went for a walk around the foreshore and fortunately made it back before the conditions changed.
There is a smile on the rugby followers in town with the Wallabies being walloped 50 something to 8. The Sth African cricketers have had a woeful time in the UK and their Olympic record was abysmal with one silver and a few bronze. At least the Springboks have saved them a bit of face.
Yes, we had fish and chips from the most southernmost fish and chip shop on the continent. The first ones since leaving Australia. They were delicious.

Joan getting a helping hand

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Southern most point of Africa. Cape Agulhas

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Easy Tea. Gale Force Winds Outside

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Cape Agulhas. Sthn most point of Africa

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Celebrations at the Cape of Good Hope

2008-08-29T02:54:00.000-07:00

28th August. Cape Town

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28^th August. Cape Town.

It was to be a day of finishing off the shopping, but during the night the wind increased and the rain became incessant. Just like the forecasters’ said it would. What better type of weather to visit the Cape of Good Hope National Park. A place where countless ships have faltered because of such weather. Some of the wrecks are still on the beach though many have gone to a watery grave.

The wind was gale force. We took the funicular from the car park to the top lighthouse where we had trouble standing upright. At least the sun shone intermittently. This lighthouse is some 240 odd metres above the ocean, when built in the 1800s it seemed to be the logical place to build it. What they forgot was the regular low cloud that hangs around this range and when that happens the beam from the lighthouse wouldn’t travel 100 metres. It needed a major catastrophe for the powers that be to realize their mistake and the sinking of the Lusitania in the early 1900s was the catalyst. There is now a second lighthouse a lot lower down the cliff face.

The lighthouse is actually built on Cape Point which is further south by a 100 metres or so than the Cape of Good hope but the second cape is the most famou of course. Originally called the Cape of Storms by Bartholomew Dias in 1487 after almost being wrecked when he came back around it, His sponsor, King John of Portugal decided a more suitable name would be the Cape of Good Hope.

On the drive out to the Cape Joan got me to pull up in a hurry, she had spotted a Southern Right Whale and its calf swimming close to shore in False Bay the bay to the east of the peninsula. We spent 20 minutes watching this massive creature appear to just potter around in a small area. A local walking by acted very hum harrish as though such a site was an every day occurrence.

Cape of Good Hope from Cape Point

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At the Cape

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Cape Town at Last

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26^th August. Yzerfontein, Atlantic Coast.

It will be quite sad reaching Cape Town tomorrow. It has been quite a trip and now we are at this beach town less then 100kms from Kaapstaad we can’t put off the inevitable any longer. There will still be 1700 kms to travel up the east coast to Durban but CT has always meant the end of a Cairo to Cape Town trip and we feel a little lost.

The last couple of days have again been very eventful. From Nieuwouldville we travelled across the Cederburg Wilderness Area, a wild and woolly plateau enhanced by the freezing weather and intermittent rain for most of the trip then descended by way of a spectacular road to the valley floor before once more ascending over another pass where the sandstone rocks and cliffs surrounded us in a foreboding very trogilydic attitude.

After reaching Clanwilliam we headed back out to the Atlantic Coast and followed the road down to Eland Bay where we spent the night on the edge of the sea with the roaring of the rough seas drowning out all other noise. This was the type of place we really enjoy: unpretentious, laid back and very small.

Today we travelled further south and spent most of the day in the West Coast National Park where the wild flowers in places were as spectacular as those further north. As well as the flowers we saw a couple of animals we hadn’t seen before: mountain zebras and bat eared foxes. There were also springbok, gembok, kudu and many sea birds.

27^th August. Cape Town!!

Finally made it. Cape Town at last. It was a clear day today, barely a breeze. But the forecast for the next few days is for a cold front coming off the Atlantic. We spent the day at the waterfront, a tourist haven but still a working port with many big ships and fishing boats in the harbour. We had lunch overlooking the water with Table Mountain towering imposingly above us. It should have been a champagne lunch to celebrate but that may wait until we go down to the Cape of Good Hope, a few kms south of here.

We are staying at the Lighthouse Backpackers, part of an old hospital complex and only a few kilometres from the centre of town.

We are booked to fly back to AU on the 14^th Sept while the van is booked on a boat sails that sails on the 12^th Sept. It all seems so final.

Last time we were asked ‘what were the highlights of our trip?’ I think we said the polo at the Shandur Pass in Pakistan. This time I think we will find it hard to pick any one highlight. The trip has been such an amazing experience. We have only covered a minuscule part of the continent but what we have seen has opened ourselves up to a while new set of feelings, experiences and encounters. The fellow travellers we have met are perhaps one of the highlights. Such an amazing lot of people who make our travels seem pretty ordinary

Atlantic NP

2008-08-29T02:46:00.000-07:00

Bat Eared Fox

2008-08-29T02:45:00.000-07:00

Hi, One Post, 4 photos

2008-08-25T03:43:00.000-07:00

20th August. Norotshama, Aussenkehr
A lovely camp site on the banks of the Orange River. South Africa lies across the water, some 70 metres away. We will stay here a couple of days then cross into the Republic. It’s a shame to be leaving Namibia; it has been a great place to spend a few weeks. Last night we camped amongst a forest of Quiver trees. They grow on outcrops of rock and resemble upside down florets of broccoli. They would be up to 5 metres in height and spread widely over a 100 hectare area. There were also other strange plants we haven’t seen elsewhere as well.
We left mid morning and drove south through the Fish River Canyon that, again, is a highlight of this country. The gravel roads were good but we for some reason had a bad run of it getting 2 punctures in a matter of an hour or so. This on a very good smooth gravel road. Joan wasn’t wearing her St Christopher she tells me afterwards.
Luckily Norotshama is a large vineyard with a big workshop, the mechanics mended the punctures as best they could but one of the holes was large caused by a sharp rock and the other is on the side wall of the tyre.
It is very isolated out here. We travelled over 100 kms this afternoon without seeing one car and only a couple of houses. At least the 2nd puncture happened a few kilometres from our destination and I was able to use the compressor to pump it up. I have a repair kit which has worked in the past but this tear was too big.
22nd August. Springbok. Sth Africa
Our last frontier crossing and only the 2nd one in Africa where we didn’t have to fork out any money. A pleasant change. We had a relaxing day at Norotshama. The wind blew in the morning while we did some cleaning up but it died down in the afternoon when I was able to take one of the canoes out and paddle across to the Republic of South Africa. The scenery in this area is very wild and rugged on the RSA’s side while on the Namibian side the river flats are covered with vineyards and orchard.
Springbok is a magnet for visitors at this time of the year as the wild flowers are out in bloom. We are so lucky when we travel, we timed it perfectly. We have only started to get into the area where they are but already they are quite something. I wonder if they are the same types of plants that form the display in Western Australia at about the same time.
23rd August.
There is a nature resave a couple of kilometres on from the campsite that we are told has a great display of the wild flowers. We heard this from our South African neighbours at the camp site. From Cape Town, they, like we are finding with South Africans in general, are reticent to approach us. But when the ice is broken we are finding them so very hospitable, love their country, but fear for it future. Before they went back to cook their tea we had been given 2 bottles of very nice Sth African fortified wine, a topographical map of an area south of here they said we must visit as well as an offer to join them in a braai when we get to Cape Town.
Anyhow, getting back to the reserve and the flowers. They were magnificent. A fair few succulents but so many others as ell. There were areas of solid oranges and purples leading up to the rocky outcrops or koppies, then other areas a mixture of whites, yellows, reds, orange and purples. We were able to drive around the reserve and could stop whenever we felt like it. It was a most stimulating morning. In the afternoon I watched the Wallabies beat the Springboks sitting alongside a couple of rabid Springbok supporters. All I could say was it was good to see the best team on the day win.

Amongst the Flowers

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Flowers in Namaqaland, Sth Africa

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Paddling across to Sth Africa

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Welcome to Sth Africa

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19th. One post, 4 images

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17th August. Solitaire
I had to start a blog from Solitaire. It is exactly as the name suggests: a lonely bleak wind swept outpost on the edge of the Namib Desert. The town consists of a servo, a lodge, a camp site and a small shop. The shop has found an interesting gimmick; it makes fantastic apple pies and sells about 200 big slices of the pie a day. Everybody who passes comes in for one. The wind blew gale force all night with a chill to go with it. But it is situated in a spectacular setting with flat land falling away to desert sand surrounded by low mountains that were red with the setting sun on our arrival last night. The camp site is exposed, a braai was out of the question but we were very comfortable in the van eating our chicken curry. Before going to bed we noticed a partial lunar eclipse was occurring.
Today we drive a few kilometres to the red desert sands at Sossusvlei. It is another highlight of this country.
Coming down to the desert yesterday we travelled over a mountain pass that had a very steep decline on the western side. Trucks, caravans and trailers are banned from using it. Part of the steepest sections were cobbled with a roughened surface for cars to get a grip. The view from the top was most impressive and difficult to catch the panorama in a photo.
19th East of Hehnringhausen
The thing with these dunes at Sossulvlei is to be amongst them at dawn. But the entrance to the park gate is 62 kms away at Sesriem and a secondary gate doesn’t open to 5.30. There is an outer gate that opens at 6.30. They have placed the park camp site in between these two gates so those staying on the park camp site have an hour up on those camped outside. But the catch is they charge N$600 (AU$85) for 2 persons to stay at their camp site whereas the normal price to camp is in the $10-20 range. It’s a rip off which is annoying but then a guess it’s a bit like Uluru where they charge an exorbitant price as well.
The dunes at dawn were impressive. A continuous flow of these mountainous dunes with the highest about 300 metres above the surrounding plain. They are a brilliant orange/red in colour and with the early light they literary lit up. We climbed one of them to get a better view. A slow task though by walking along the crest the slope was not too strenuous. I hope the panorama shot on the blog does it justice.
We headed south/east from Sesriem, we were thinking of camping out for the night then came upon this quiet camp ground not far off the road. Woken this morning by a myriad bird calls, very nice.

Panorama at Sossusvlei

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Dead Camel Thorn Trees, Deadvlei

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Sossusvlei Pan

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On Dune above Sossusvlei Pan

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16th August. Windhoek

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14th August. Spitzkoppe,
Last night we were at the camp site on a deserted stretch of shoreline overlooking the waters of the Atlantic. Tonight we are a 100kms inland on what has been called the best camp site in the country. Run by the local community the camp site covers a good 3 sq kms in and around these massive granite hills. In Australia they would be called mountains. Each camping spot is tucked in amongst the rock separated from each other by a couple of hundred metres or more. You just drive around until you find a site that appeals. The side of the hills are covered by boulders some weighing hundreds of tonnes and which, you would think, could roll down on you at any time. There are no showers apart from ones back at the entrance and there are only long drop toilets interspersed here and there. You have to bring everything in with you. The silence is overwhelming, apart from the birds calling.
Tomorrow we drive the short distance to Windhoek, the capital where we will spend a couple of days.
We will be a further week or so in Namibia but it is turning out as one of our favourite African countries and one we could easily come back to for a couple of months. The only other one we think of along the these lines is Ethiopia.

Cape Seals at Cape Cross. Atlantic

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Catching up on the reading

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Alone again. Atlantic coast

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Namibians love their camp fires.

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Great camp site at Spitzkoppe

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Hi

2008-08-13T03:00:00.000-07:00

Two posts and a few photos. Connections are great here. The Etosha NP post might make interesting reading.
Gary

12th August. Cape Cross, Atlantic Coast

2008-08-13T02:59:00.000-07:00

Cape Cross, Atlantic Coast. Namibia.
Quite a big day today. We reached the West coast of Africa. 30 days and over 6,000 kms ago we left the east coast at Peponi Beach in Tanzania. We knew we were getting close because we could see this cloud bank that hovers over the Atlantic coast. This coast line must be one of the bleakest anywhere. Early Portuguese sailors called it Areias de Inferno or Sands of Hell. To them, being shipwrecked on this treacherous coast would mean no chance of survival. For hundreds of kilometres down the coast and a hundred kilometres inland there is no water. We are camped tonight metres from the ocean. On arrival we were told there is no water as the water truck hasn’t arrived. Some things don’t change. The area attracts hundreds of surf fishermen in the season, with this campsite catering for over 500 visitors I would say at a guess yet we are the only ones here tonight.
We’ve done a couple of touristy things since leaving Etosha like a Petrified Forest and some very good rock carvings west of the national park. We have passed through some memorable scenery much of it very reminiscent of scenery in the outback of Australia. That is until you see three elephants passing by.
The carvings were very impressive. Carved by the desert Bush Men some 4000 years ago they are in a very good state. Chiselled into the sandstone they depict animals that they felt helped to bring the rains and good hunting. The carvings are reputed to be the best in the country.
From there we travelled south west to where we are now. We went a little north from here before settling for the night, to the Cape Cross seal colony. The barking and the smell of the seals strike you before you get to them but they are still an impressive sight. There must be over 4000 in the colony, it would be impossible to walk between them, while out at sea hundreds are diving for fish or just gallivanting around. A group of silver backed jackals hovered around looking for a neglected calf or an old codger ready to cark it.

9th August. Etosha NP

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There have been so many amazing sights we have seen in the 2 days we have been in the park. To pick out any two in particular would be hard but maybe if I talk of one of the smallest and the largest mammals we have seen it may give you an idea. Yesterday we drove down to the Kalkhewel waterhole late in the afternoon. There were giraffes, an elephant, zebras as well as a hundred or so guinea fowls, and scores of Cape turtle dove. The doves were at the water, the animals were guardedly approaching the water while the guinea fowl did the wonderfully stupid display in the dirt and chasing around after each other.
Suddenly we noticed an African wild cat appear on the scene. Similar in size to or domestic cats, it has quite a pug nose. It made its way quickly to the edge of the water and hid between some of the large stones nearby. The guinea fowl set off the alarm with large hooting and, surprisingly, en masse, headed towards the cat stopping 5 metres or so away. Their cacophony continued. The cat crouched and waited. Shortly, now they had sounded the warning. The guinea fowl went off to carry on their dust bathing. Doves must be quite thick because it wasn’t long before they gained up courage and were once more flying in to drink. One took a flight path too close to the cat and ended up minus a few feathers. Still the cat waited. Another one came in, this time the cat leapt almost 2 metres in to the air and grabbed it. It was so quick. The other doves hardly noticed. It hurried away the dove fluttering fruitlessly in its jaws.
Today, again late in the afternoon, we visited the Salvadora water hole that’s in the centre of the park. There were 4 other Vehicles there including a Landrover with a film crew on board. The parking area was above the water hole and, unbeknownst to us, a metre or two above the spring from where the water flowed. Two lionesses relaxed on the edge of the water, seemingly oblivious of what was happening nearby. Cheetahs were meant to be present in the area so we spent a while looking out for them. Suddenly a very large elephant lumbered up from the west. He had been wallowing in the white clay that is prevalent in parts of the park resulting in a two tone creature. He seemed in a hurry, had a perfunctory taste of the pond water as he went past but blew that out then headed up the hill to the spring. Why have second hand water when you can get the real thing. At this point he was less than 5 metres from the cars, his proximity caused a couple of the cars to pull back but when they realized he wasn’t coming up they moved closer and watched. He spent a good 20 minutes drinking while everybody took photos and the film crew must have been ecstatic with the footage they were getting. Then all hell broke loose, the elephant headed up into the car park, his ears waving, swaying and his trunk raised. Cars went in all directions. I was in a position where I had to reverse then go forward to be able to move. The bloody elephant must have been laughing to himself on the commotion he was causing. He strolled confidently along the road, the film crew ahead catching it all. Suddenly he would turn around facing the cars following as if to say, ‘keep your distance or I will have ya!’ The last we saw of him before we turned off in another direction was him walking along the road causing consternation to a couple of other cars that had come up in the other direction. We laughed afterwards but at the time you se these behemoths and just thing how they could turn your car over just like that.
It’s a very large park, Etosha, with a varied type of vegetation. One moment you are in a grass covered plain that has hundreds of springbok, zebras, gemsbok, and wildebeest, then you are in a tree covered area favoured by the elephants and giraffes. The roads take you to the water holes that are dotted around the park. At times you might see 6 or 7 types of animals or large birds at the one water hole, of course of there are lions lying around the other animals are reticent to drink.
It’s a wonderful park, we have seen so much, good roads, good facilities and a good price of $16 per day all up. Compare that to Serengeti where they ripped us off 140 just to transit the park on diabolical roads. The three camping lodges in the park are expensive to stay at, about $50 a camp site, but there are some great lodges with camping just outside the gates less than half that price with personal ensuites per site. Usually the lodge has a viewing platform overlooking a water hole where you can sip you G&Ts watching the animals drink as the sun goes down. Very civilized.

A busy waterhole

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We came upon this 500 metres into the park

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African cat with Cape dove

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They have right of way on roads

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Note elephant on foreground

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1 Post & some photos

2008-08-07T03:14:00.000-07:00

7th August. Near Grootfontein, Namibia.
The Caprivi strip was a boring drive. For the 2 days we covered 800kms passing many villages but apart from those there was nothing but scrubby trees on straight roads. The good thing going for it we didn’t see one pot hole the whole journey. The road off to the National Park was gravel but wide and a good surface. This. I believe, is what we can expect in Namibia. Today we go to the Etosha NP. The jewel in Namibia’s tourism crown. I expect there to be many other tourists there but we experienced the isolation of Muhanga NP which makes up for it.
Last night we stopped off at the Die Kraal Camping and Steak Restaurant. It was a cool night but the owner had a roaring brazier going. We sat down to a meal of zebra steak, roast potatoes and fresh beans. There is a butchery a short distance from here where we will go back and buy a couple of steaks. As I expected, the native animals are farmed here, yesterday we passed large areas of land fenced with high fencing that had vertical wooden battens every foot or so, I guess that is for the animals to realize there is a fence there. You have to be careful travelling through Botswana and Namibia; there has been an outbreak of foot and mouth disease somewhere and there are regular inspections on the highway where you have to stand in disinfectant and the wheels of the vehicle is sprayed. They also confiscate any red meat you have. We socialised with a group of Austrians last night, 8 in number, they had had meat for a couple of meals for them all confiscated the day before.
Incidentally, what started out as a quick meal on our own turned into quite a celebration as it was one of the group’s birthday, champagne was presented, the red wine flowed and the French cognac afterwards was much appreciated. Things are cheap here compared to AU, I should say food. But then we are getting almost 8 Namib$ to our dollar so a loaf of heavy health bread that would cost $4 in AU is costing $10Namib, the equivalent of $1.20. A 3 course meal at the resort the other night with a generous glass of wine cost $139$N each or $18AU. After Zambia’s prices it is great.

Victoria Falls

2008-08-07T03:13:00.000-07:00

Victoria Falls, Zambia

2008-08-07T03:11:00.000-07:00

Nyika NP, Malawi

2008-08-07T03:10:00.000-07:00

Road Block. Malawi NP

2008-08-07T03:09:00.000-07:00

6th August. Rundu, Namiba

2008-08-06T03:57:00.000-07:00

3rd August. Katima Lulilo, Namibia.
I met a Texan today who used to play rugby while he was in the army and after that at university. I was tickled pink. To make it better he was very keen on the All Blacks and subscribed to their news letter on the internet. Well, what could I do on an occasion such as this but to give him the New Zealand scarf I wore to the World Cup last year. Patrick and his 2 children are over here for a vacation and are entranced by the country as we have been.
At the moment we are camped on the edge of the Zambezi River at this place, Katima Lulilo. It is another magnificent river and with such an exotic name how can it be other than entrancing. The sun set in a ball over the water while 2 fishermen cast into the deep water. Hippos are groaning again downstream and swimming is not recommended because of the crocs.
An interesting day today: we left Livingstone mid morning then travelled a short distance to the Botswana border situated on the Zambezi. The idea was to cross into Botswana then spend a couple of days in the Chobe NP . However, when we reached the park entrance we were told the camp site was 30kms into the park on a deep sandy track. 4WD was compulsory with a dif lock on the vehicle. We decided then to just travel on the transit road through the park and go into Namibia the same day. It was only a 50km drive on the transit road and although we kept an eye out for animals, saw nothing for the first 30kms. Suddenly we saw an elephant on the side of the road, the park is famous for its elephants. We stopped and a herd of them followed the leader crossing the road. They just kept coming, we counted well over 50 in that herd. We saw another 2 herds crossing of a smaller number. With that first herd, I pulled up to where they were disappearing into the bush when the last male turned around, rushed at us flapping his massive ears and trumpeting. From other times I know he wouldn’t keep on going, it’s just a bit of bluff, but is still a little scary
5th August. Mahunga Safari Lodge.
You’ve got to take your hat off to these Namibians: this camp sit is part of the lodge but it has everything you could possibly want and all for $14 per night. Once again we are parked on the edge of a great river, this time the Okavanga, but this river doesn’t find an outlet to the sea, instead it exhausts itself in the sands of the Kalahari Desert. The delta formed in the desert is famed as THE place to see wildlife but as the only way to get in is by plane and the lodges start at about $350 p/p per night it is outside our budget. We had to be content with the Mahunga Game Reserve a few kms from the lodge. Famed for its elephants, we saw everything but this morning but on the drive this afternoon we did see a good size herd. Sch an array of animals we came upon this morning: giraffes, zebras, blue wildebeests, hartebeests, various other types of antelopes, hippos mating (not a pretty sight) and Cape buffalo. At one point where we were able to get out of the car, the flood plain lay below us. From that point we were able to see 40-50 various types of birds with one sweep of our binoculars. It was amazing, Ross & Cathy eat your heart out.
Not sure of the details but they must farm the wild animals here in Namibia as we had a delicious eland stroganoff for dinner tonight at the restaurant. I don’t think they would be allowed to shoot them n the wild.

31st July. Lusaka, Zambia

2008-08-06T03:52:00.000-07:00

31st July. Lusaka, Zambia.
This city has been quite surprising. Lilongwe was like a little village that expanded upon itself but Lusaka is full of malls, modern shops and so very clean. Prices are getting close to Australian prices but the incomes must be higher as the people are well dressed and seem to spend a fair bit of money on their appearance. Plenty of cars in the city although once you get away from the metropolis they thin out. Zambia has one of the lowest people per kilometre in Africa and a lot of the country we drove through today was devoid of villages and locals.
We made it to Lusaka, a distance of 550kms, nursing a bulging back tyre and the spare as good as useless. It was a case of 80kph with anticipating a blow out at any time. Quite good driving at that speed; it gives you time to look around if there aren’t pot holes to contend with.
The camp site is 10kms out of Lusaka, a large camping ground with chalets set around the verge. We were surprised to see a herd of zebras wander across the camp ground to settle on a bit of green grass between a couple of chalets oblivious of the people around them. A pity a couple of silly yapping dogs disturbed them and set them away.
We finally drew ahead of Chris & Janet, the English couple we first met up with in central Tanzania. We have met up again 6 times but as they have a lot of time to kill I doubt we will see them again on this trip. They were the couple that drove to the North Cape in Norway before heading south. A lovely couple of similar age and with similar interests. While on Lake Malawi they said they had never had had a meal of fish cooked with the scales on. This is a favourite of mine as I always feel removing the scales is sacrilege as it’s the scales that hold all the juices in. So they (Chris) cooked the first course and dessert (Chris) while we cooked up new spuds, ratatouille and 4 tiger fish bought from the fishing boats after they had come in from fishing off the Mozambique coast. It was a delicious meal washed down with the ‘best’ cask of Sth African red available in Malawi (the only one)..
Still a long way from the end of this trip but we were discussing yesterday on the lovely attitude the local people have. There hasn’t been once when we have felt threatened or ill at ease with the locals. Sure, we haven’t gone out of our way to meet them on their own terms but when we stop on the side of the road for morning tea or lunch, the locals passing by always give us a wave, break out into a broad smile, and if are close to hand, give us the African hand shake and are delighted if we reciprocate. For the uninitiated it’s a case of shaking hands as usual, then clasping each other’s thumbs, then finishing off with another ordinary hand shake where the hands virtually slide off each other’s palms. It ‘s just a little more personal than the ordinary handshake.
1st August. Livingstone, Zambia
A long drive, 470kms, with the last 60kms a mass of magnificent pot holes. A side road has been formed alongside the tarmac that usually is the better route to take.
Livingstone is the base in Zambia for visiting the Victoria Falls. Also the base for the thrill seekers to satiate their lust with bungey jumping, white water rafting, paragliding, jet skiing and everything else that tickles your fancy. We are staying at a camp site not far from the falls and will visit them tomorrow.
The tyres I had fitted in Lusaka were a narrower tyre than what I had on but were the same depth and radius which I believe are the important thing in an all wheel drive vehicle. Pleased to say it seems to be travelling well. From here we cross into northern Botswana visiting the Chobe NP then into the Caprivi strip, part of Namibia that featured so much in the civil war in Angola. It is a thin strip of land, part of Namibia that stretches for some 400kms before coming into Namibia proper. Looking forward to Namibia, so many people have told us how lovely it is but we are starting to think we are running out of time to visit everything we should there. We have met a couple from Brisbane here at this camp site that have hired a 4x4 from Kea SA that has a great arrangement fitted on the back of a Toyota Hilux. Another food for thought.
This trip started off as a twice in a life time trip for us, something to remember in or dotage. But you may have picked up by now that it has become much more than that. It has opened up so many opportunities in what is possible with regards further travel. We have met so many people who have made their self drive travel part of their lives. From Will & Gunilla, a German/Norwegian couple whom we met in Nairobi in their massive MAN truck, they have sold up everything back in Germany to do nothing but travel. They have been on the road for 11 years, he is almost blind and they want to make the most of it before he loses his sight completely. To Anne & Keith the couple from Narromine who have bought a Hilux in Namibia and come over every few months to see more of Africa. Keith is an ex Qantas 747-400 pilot, has had a couple of health scares but again, wants to make the most of it. Henk & Mariannne, a Dutch couple we met at Lake Bunyoni in Uganda, another couple who travel for 3 months then fly home where Marianne works for 3 months then back they go to pick up their Toyota and off they go again. I think we have met more people from the Netherlands than anywhere. Today we had a surprise phone call from Reidar & Ellen, the Norwegian couple we first met in Luxor and ran into them 5 times after that., They had returned to Norway for a few months after leaving their Land cruiser in Cape Town ready for their next visit. Completely out of the blue, it was lovely to here from them, all they wanted to know was where we were and how we were going. So many lovely and interesting people. It’s a way of life alien to so many people, usually they are happy to travel around Australia 4 times. Yet there is so much they can do if they just step out of their comfort zone. As some Greek philosopher said ‘The first step of any journey is always the hardest.’
Enough waffling: today we visited the Victoria Falls. Like The Taj Mahal, Uluru and the pyramids you know all about them, know there will be hordes of tourists, yet when you get there they are just awe inspiring. So much water channelling over so many parts of the 1.2km wide falls it is just breathtaking. Upstream where the water is more subdued we found a picnic table on the edge of the water. There was a sign saying a permit had to be acquired as that area was part of the national park. There were 2 guards there to police the rule. After asking them if it would be okay if we had a quick picnic lunch there the senior bloke thought a while and agreed. I think he wanted a bit of a bribe, but after we had eaten we made up a couple of sandwiches and took it over to them. Broad smiles broke out and we departed with everyone feeling a win/win situation had occurred.

Lusaka 31st July

2008-07-31T06:12:00.000-07:00

30th July. Luwanga Bridge. Zambia
Charles Dickens began one of his books: ‘It was the best of times, it was the worst of times’ (or words to that effect). That’s a bit like this trip is turning out.
We crossed over from Malawi to Zambia the day before yesterday, travelled 30 kms to Chipata where we stayed the night all set to travel on to South Luangwa NP the next morning. 80kms into the 130km trip to the park’s entrance we had a puncture which I didn’t pick up straight away due to the corrugations and rough road. Hence the side walls were damaged. The bolts releasing the spare wheel seized due to the dirt and dust on the thread. I repaired the damaged tyre then decided to forget the park and hobble back to Chipata on the damaged tyre where we m ay be able to buy a new tyre. No such luck. The tyres on the van are 17”, not a size used often in this country. We had the spare put on after grinding the problem bolt off and using the damaged wall tyre as a spare. Lusaka is over 500kms on but we were told we would be able to buy the tyres we required there. While getting the spare tyre fitted we noticed the front left tyre was also losing air. We found the hole which was quickly repaired but there were another 3 minute leaks in the same vicinity. I said to the bloke, I had a compressor and would put air in it when required. All this problem reverts back to the service we had in Lilongwe where they topped up the tyre pressures for me but their gauge must have been incorrect: instead of putting in 3.0 bar and 3.1 bar I realized later the tyres had 3.45 bar and 3.55 bar in. On corrugations it is advisable to reduce the pressure not increase it
Eating lunch today on the side of the road today I glanced down at the spare tyre we had fitted the day before and noticed a bulge in the side wall. The spare was damaged, we had to go on with the damaged tyre still in place. Three faulty tyres, these were the worst of times.
Luangwe Bridge is a small settlement 2/3rds of the way to Lusaka from Chipata, the Bridge Camp Site is this amazing place built on the edge of the Luangwa River. The lodge bar and restaurant has a 180 degree view of the river in which hippos can be heard and a good eye has to be kept out for the crocs that lie in the rushes on the edge. We are the only ones in the camp, the Southern Cross is very visible in a clear sky, monkeys are making a b-line to our rubbish, we have enjoyed a drink sitting around a fire in the open at the bar and after that cooking an appetising meal on the open fire near the van. It has been a lovely evening, one we will remember. The best of times.

27th July. Lilongwe, Malawi

2008-07-27T03:18:00.000-07:00

Hi there, sorry on the delay in getting this posted. Have been away from connections fdor a week and it is all dial up here in Malawi. Too slow to add photos.

18th July, Rumphi, Malawi.
The early missionaries found the shores of Lake Malawi a deadly base due to the prevalence of malaria. But above them rose the western escarpment of the East African Rift Valley and on finding a good water supply, moved to the top of the range. Malaria is not present over 2,000 metres. They called the town Livingstonia, named, of course, after David Livingstone. The road they built rises abruptly from the edge of the lake up the precipice. It’s a good road, rough in places with many hair pin ends but a credit to their road building expertise. Dr Robert Laws was the force behind the settlement. The building began in the early 20th Century and extended to a hospital as well as the church. The town now has a university as well as other institutions. Pulling up to the museum we were surrounded by a group of Irish visitors who were so enthused to see some Australian visitors. Sixteen of them, they were there to help construct a building at the local school. Before we knew it we had a coffee in our hands and standing for a photo shoot. They were such an exuberant crowd.
From there we travelled a further 100kms on to Rumphi where we had been told a camp site was available in the grounds of an orphanage situated on the outskirts of town. The Matunkha Orphanage is quite amazing. Set up by a Dutch couple some 10 years ago the number of orphans they cater for have swelled from about 200 to over 2600 today. Aids is the cause of most of the parent’s deaths and now they rely on grand parents and foster parents to house them of a night while they come to the school at the orphanage during the day. There are also many living at the orphanage as well. There are many volunteers visiting that help run the place but Matilde and her husband are the driving force behind it all. But theirs is just one of the many orphanages in this part of Africa that provide help to the many children suffering the loss of their parents. It is a major problem.
19th July. Nyika National Park.
Close to the Zambian border, this park resembles the Scottish Highlands so much you expect to see a red deer wander across the horizon at any time instead of an eland. Set on a plateau there are a few copses of trees but most of the rolling hills are treeless with a short grass and bracken cover. Many types of antelope are in the park as well as jackals and hyenas. As I write this I have had a knock on the door to tell us a hyena is prowling around. This is one of the few parks where it is safe to walk around. Before the park was gazetted plantations of conifers had been planted as an income earning venture. That was over 50 years ago and these are now being harvested after which the land will revert back to its original state. Alongside the camp site is one such plantation, Aerial, the bloke keeping an eye on the camp has spent the whole day cutting firewood so the 5 lots of campers can have roaring fires to keep the cold out. It is much appreciated, the night is cold.
20th July Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve.
Talk about cold. It was freezing. We were caught out somewhat. The frost was heavy on the ground in the morning. We left the park early and travelled back the way we came and have stopped off at this game reserve known for its elephants. We took an evening drive and didn’t see the herds but came upon one feeding in the middle of the road. The trees were too dense for us to creep past; we waited for 15 minutes watching him grazing away. He (or she) then noticed us and strolled along the track towards us. I don’t think it was that big as far as elephants go but when they are 15 metres away any full grown pachyderm looks pretty massive. I think he was just inquisitive because after eye balling us for a few minutes he turned away and headed into the bush. As we passed him he let out a trumpet and took off. He was very impressive.
21st July, Lake Malawi
Away from the cold for a short while enjoying the lake shore. Low surf, white sand, no bilharzia, it is very nice. We stopped off at the largest northern Malawi city, Mzuzu to stock up on a bit of food. There are small supermarkets in Malawi, a nice change after Tanzania where outside the major cities there are no larger shops, just little shops selling the same thing. Another thing we are appreciating here is being able to buy the bread that we are used to. Further north often all you can get is that sweet loaf which is bloody horrible.

18th July. Rumphi, Malawi

2008-07-18T08:19:00.000-07:00

14th July, The Old Farmhouse, Southern Tanzania.
Joan’s birthday was a day of driving. The night before we had had a nice seafood platter accompanied by a Sth African Sauvignon blanc at Peponi Beach but knew we couldn’t stay another day there relaxing. Even so, it was an interesting day as the main road takes you through Mikumi NP, there is no charge if you stay on the highway and we saw quite a few animals including Masai giraffes, two elephant herds and Grevy’s zebra. We made it to the other side of the park, a distance of 540kms for the day, and stayed at a nice Tanz-Swiss hotel. While there we met a lovely couple from Narromine, close to Dubbo. Anne & Keith bought a Hilux in Namibia and fly over regularly to travel through different parts of the continent. We were able to gain good info on our southern route from them.
Today we were once more appreciative of a good road making another 245kms until stopping off at this Old Farm house where we were told offer a delicious 3 course meal. Once again we have run into fellow travellers: an English couple who drove their Toyota Hi Ace to the North Cape in Norway then are heading south via Russia and Iran to Cape Town. Also an Austrian/French couple who have hired a 4WD from Cape Town and headed north. Another option we never thought you could do if we decide there is more to Southern Africa than we can take in on this trip.
On the drive today we passed through this amazing broad valley full of thousands of baobab trees. They went on as far as you could see and it wasn’t a small valley but continued for over 20 kms. Our destination was the Utenguli Coffee Lodge. A very pleasant place, they have just expanded to allow campers. However they will need to revise their tariffs as $15 per person just for camping as considerably more than the $3-5 p/p we are used to paying. Travelling the way we are word of mouth is the main way of finding the latest good and bad spots to visit or stay, prices like they are charging will deter many overlanders.
16th July. Sangolis Resort, Lake Malawi, Malawi.
Another country, another lake laid out below us. A beautiful spot but a steep hill to get down to. The lake is fairly narrow but stretches almost 700kms down the eastern side of the country. A poor country and another one devastated by Aids.
We are loving the better roads we have been on the last week. In fact, after leaving Peponi Beach the van hasn’t missed a beat. We will still be on rough roads going into the national parks but apart from that it should be plain sailing.

11th July. Peponi Beach Tasnzania

2008-07-11T06:16:00.000-07:00

We left Nairobi in the early afternoon after having the damaged tyre re-vulcanised. They didn’t have the same size tyre as on the vehicle but have made a good job even if used as just a spare.
Road works for the first 100kms slowed us down: they do a long stretch of road reconstruction at a time, the detour is made up then left. After the rains and continuous traffic it becomes as bad as some of the worst roads we have driven on, they don’t put a grader over it once. Anyhow, come dark we were still a long way from Mombasa and looking for a place to stop the night. We pulled in to one of the gates at the Tsavo NP but the quoted price of $50 shocked us.. That just to stop inside the gate for security, with no services. I hate driving at night in these countries especially when there are zebras on the side of the road, not sure how traffic conscious they are. Made it to Voi on the far side of the NP and stopped in the Shell servo for a security charge of $3. Much more realistic.
On to Mombasa then south to the border on a good road. The last time we came into Tanzania from Rwanda we were asked top pay a road toll of $6 per 100kms. Even with a revised kilometre count it came to $150. We managed to get it down to $100 but were shocked at that rip off. This time we were apprehensive the same thing would occur but it seemed to be a standard fee of $25 this post. The road south from the border was gravel but not too bad. That was to Tanga and a further 30 kms on to Peponi Beach where we are now ensconced. The last time we saw the sea was the Red Sea in Egypt. Prices are cheapish here in Tanzania. A nice meal with a glass of wine last night set us back $9 total. Still haven’t had a nice steak on this trip, it’s usually so tough.

Mass Graves at Kigali Memorial Centre

2008-07-11T06:13:00.000-07:00

Plaque at Kigali Memorial Centre

2008-07-11T06:07:00.000-07:00

Hi

2008-07-09T01:57:00.000-07:00

I missed the lower post out. From Rwanda, it makes interesting reading.
Still can't upload the photos
Gary

2nd July Lake Mahuji Rwqanda

2008-07-09T01:53:00.000-07:00

Rwanda is a very hilly country. We will be leaving it tomorrow and still have to come upon a road that has a straight stretch more than 500 metres long. At least the roads have generally been good and we even ventured to say the road from Lake Kivu back to Kigali was the best we have been on in Africa. Very windy but well built, good curves and regularly maintained.
Before leaving Lake Kivu we decided to drive around the bays a little and find a place to have breakfast. Were we stopped was near a concrete plaque with writing on it we couldn’t understand. On closer inspection I realized it was just above a mass grave measuring 10 metres x 4 metres. Not even this idyllic corner of the country was spared the slaughter. We also drove back to a church that had a memorial to 11,400 people killed in the area. The grave there would measure twice the earlier one.
Two other churches have become shrines to the destruction of April 1994. Both just south of Kigali and just off a major road. The one at Ntarama is a simple structure with a Sunday school and offices in behind. 5,000 were macheted to death in these buildings. The main church has racks of skulls on one end, the pews, which are planks of wood placed on a low cement base, are still there. Around the walls are piled the clothes of the victims while each side of the alter has the provisions the people brought with them. They were there for 3 days before being attacked. The Sunday school still has blood on the walls. Davita showed us around; a beautiful sad girl, she was 10 when the attack occurred and remembers so much.
At Nyamata the church is big and modern. It would be three times bigger than Ntarama. On the pews there are piles of clothes from those killed. If there were 5,000 at the earlier church there would have been 20,000 killed here going by the amount of clothing. I am pretty sure there was a church where 50,000 had sheltered but were all killed, but am not positive that was Nyamata. The woman there could not speak English. Behind the church a crypt has been built that houses thousands of skulls and other bones laid out on trays.
The UN were in the country when all this happened but didn’t have a mandate to take up arms against the gangs. The bloke in charge said that all he needed was 7000 troops and a mandate and he could have stopped the genocide. One plaque in the Kigali Memorial said that if the troops used to evacuate all the foreigners had been used to fight there would also not have been a slaughter.
We headed east after Kigali and ready to cross into Tanzania tomorrow morning.

Hi

2008-07-08T01:25:00.000-07:00

Hi there,at last we are in a place where we have a keyboard that we can understand and a speed fast enough to do any uploading.
Three posts but am having trouble doing the photos. will try again at a different internet place. The 2nd blog about Rwanda akes interesting reading as the troubles there happened only 14 years ago.
All the best
Gary & Joan

8th July Nairobi, Kenya

2008-07-08T01:22:00.000-07:00

There are 3 ways to get from Rwanda through western Tanzania to Dar es Salaam: the southern route is rough, sandy and rarely used, the middle route to Dodoma then on to Dar was good for a while then deteriorated we were told. Most advice was to travel the northern route through Serengeti & Ngorongoro NPs to Arusha then on down to Dar. 300kms longer but better roads with only about 70kms bad.
We took their advice. What they didn’t tell us was that apart from the 70kms of bad road, the 250 kilometres that ran through the 2 national parks was literally 250 kilometres of corrugations and sharp rock as bad as that in northern Kenya. The van suffered horribly and the drain in driving cancelled any enjoyment of seeing the animals. One blown tyre, 4 shock absorbers ruined, and a leaking cv joint. Hence our return to Nairobi which was only 270 kms from Arusha instead of the 750 km drive to Dar where the VW parts might have been harder to get. The van is at present in getting the work done, the Jungle Junction has a couple of rooms they let out.
We did see animals in Serengeti; the wildebeests were congregating ready for their annual migration, giraffes, cheetahs, topis, plenty of other antelopes and the wonderful secretary birds with their snake-stamping paddened feet. Yet they didn’t make up for the punishment the van went through. On checking out of the park I vented my spleen to the authorities on the atrocious road saying it was better 33 years ago, they apologised saying if I come back in 5 years it would be better. The Tanzanians I spoke to about it afterwards all agreed it was bad. What hurts was when we entered the country we were slapped with a $6 per 100km road tax and as we had to travel over 200kms through the country it was going to be very expensive. I got them down to ½ the original amount.
The southern part of Rwanda was as hilly as the rest of the country but seemed more populated with streams of people walking along the roads. As soon as we crossed into Tanzania the country took on a barren feel with less people. This was the Masai Steppes that continued for 100s of kilometres and where the herds of cattle watched over by the herdsmen roamed.

30th June. Lake Kivu Rwanda

2008-07-08T01:18:00.000-07:00

A sobering day. Kigali has not much going for it as a capital of a country. That is apart from the Kigali Memorial Centre that gives the visitor an insight of what happened during the three months beginning April 6th 1994 when over 800,000 Rwandans were slaughtered, mostly the minority Tutsis and moderate Hutus. The Centre is broken up into 3 sections: the genocide, a section showing other genocides that have occurred elsewhere in the world during the 20th century and the most touching, ‘Wasted Lives’ that tells the stories of some of the children who were killed. Their likes, their best friends, favourite food, their ambitions and age when killed. All this below a life size photo of the child. The Centre tries to answer the question ‘Why?’ but you come out of the place still asking that same question.
Outside are concrete slabs under which lie the remains of 250,000 people killed in the Kigali area. As we left a group of 50-60 Rwandans were queuing up at the security search point most with a single flower in their hand to lay on the mass graves. They were middle aged or older, the mood was sombre, they hardly spoke. One held out a hand to Joan as we passed. It was so touching as though they appreciated us sharing their sorrow. To imagine what these people went through is difficult.
The instigators in the slaughter used rifles, machetes and knives to kill the people. They had tanks, automatic armaments and artillery at their disposal but they wanted every Hutu in the country to share the guilt. Driving along the road you look at people and wonder was he a killer? We picked up a bloke wanting a lift, could he have slaughtered those helpless children? It is amazing how the country has put aside the animosity and is rebuilding the country. What has happened is the past. Let the tribunals look after those indicted, we have a country to rebuild
We headed west from Kigali to Lake Kivu and are staying in the Presbyterian Retreat called Bethany. The room overlooks islands n this beautiful lake. It is so quiet you feel obliged to talk in whispers. Unfortunately the paradise ended at the restaurant table where the food would be the worst we have tasted all trip.
Incidentally there are no camp sites in Rwanda, bit of a shame.

2008-07-08T01:17:00.000-07:00

28th June Lake Bunyoni

2008-07-08T01:12:00.000-07:00

Aids was bad in Uganda 20 years ago but with a strong government effort over the years it has a better rate of awareness of the problem and doing something about it than most African countries. In almost all small villages there will be an aids/HIV clinic. Today we met a couple of the people n the forefront of trying to curtail this disease. Pisdon and Tony work at the local university hospital in the HV Research Dept in association with a university in San Francisco. They explained to us the main problem they have in the country is for people to accept that they have HIV/Aids, but, with the aid if the new drugs that are becoming available even in these countries, they can live a normal life with a few precautions. Something that we are aware of in AU but for the average Ugandan once they get the disease they are ostracized by their family and community. With the aid of ‘Expats’, people who are HIV but are living a normal life, they are getting through to the people that it doesn’t have to be a death sentence. They are doing an amazing job, something South Africa should cotton on to.
We stayed another night at this amazing place, but, whereas there has been us and a Dutch couple in the camping area, tonight an overlander bus has pulled up spewing forth an array of young backpackers setting up tents all around us. There’s the breaks. At least they are quiet and have left room for us to drive out in the morning.
Mariana & Hank are an amazing couple: maybe a little younger than us their lives are split 3 months travelling then 3 months back in the Netherlands. They leave their Toyota Land cruiser in a safe place then fly home for a break. I managed to find two countries, Egypt and Sudan, they hadn’t been to. Gives one food for thought.
Early evening we are serenaded by this chorus of frogs that make this beautiful ‘tink…tink…tink’ sound from all around the lake. Makes me think of Tinkerbell spreading her magic dust in the old 78s we used to listen to. The path to the restaurant runs along the edge of the water, it’s magical walking back to the van with such a serenade.

Defasa Waterbuck. Qn Elizabeth NP

2008-07-08T01:08:00.000-07:00

27th June

2008-06-27T07:30:00.000-07:00

25^th June. Queen Elizabeth NP

Gosh it’s good to be on the road again. We finally left Kampala mid afternoon yesterday, Tuesday 24^th. The final problem was I had given a deposit to cover the parts and part of the labour when I received the bill I realized I had given about $500 too much. The bill was less than we expected. They didn’t have enough cash on hand and gave me a cheque which they said I cold cash at the local bank. Not so, the Manager said so back we go to Coopers and after quite a hassle and an annoyed coy director we walked away with the cash.

The road south to Masaka was quite interesting: very green, banana plantations and areas of 2 metre tall papyrus growing on the marshy land that edged Lake Victoria. The camp site at Masaka was wonderful, out of town, quiet and a great bloke in charge. Just what we needed for our first night back in the van.

I mentioned in an earlier post, Masaka was the town where the minister that is a friend of Joan’s Anglican Church back in Bellingen was to be contacted. We hadn’t had a reply from an email sent to his brother or a postcard sent to his address but we managed to find the Anglican church with the aid of Joseph the camp site owner. It transpired that Rev Dan is doing a 3 yr course at a town some 200kms away. We met the arch deacon, Dan’s wife Justine and their 2 older children and hope to catch up with the man himself when we go through Kibali, where he is studying, before we cross the Rwandan border. We were shown over the church school and learnt a few details from the headmaster. They were a great crowd and it will be nice for Joan to be able to report back to her church the situation we found.

Then it was on to Queen Elizabeth NP. It borders the Congo and the legendary Mountains of the Moon. Something I have always wanted to see. Ptolemy the Alexandrian explorer spoke of these snow clad mountains that sat on the equator, nobody believed that such a thing cold possibly occur. It wasn’t until 1887 when Stanley, the bloke who found Livingstone, saw them and reported back to the Royal Geographical Society did they realize they existed. We hope to see them tomorrow.

The park itself was another one destroyed by Amin’s army but is well on the way to recovery. Driving in we saw quite an array of animals.

For those interested. I am having an article printed in the July issue of the Australian Caravan & Motorhome Magazine. It’s about the paperwork necessary for shipping a vehicle overseas. Just in case any one is interested. I thought they may have been interested in further articles on touring overseas but they haven’t replied to my queries. I thought it would be a change to the articles you read all the time about Australian destinations, after all, there is other countries worth seeing as well as AU. Perhaps there will be some emails to the editor asking for follow ups on travelling in a campervan overseas that may make him show more interest.

27^th June.

Well yesterday was not our best of days. The animals in the park were few, the Ruwenzoris were covered by low cloud, the road south through the park was very rough at times then the road from the end of the park to Kabali was good until we were told that a bridge was down and we would either have to drive via this terrible track to another road or take a long detour to get to Kabali.

We wondered why there was no traffic on the last stretch of road but had asked a couple of locals who assured us the road we were on was the correct one, there were no signs to show a detour and it wasn’t until we asked a bloke in the middle of nowhere did we realize our error. We were on a high hill and he was able to point out the road we had to get to in the distance. The track was narrow and rough with washouts and a stream to cross on this bridge that had half the lengthwise running timbers missing. I imagined our 3 tonne vehicle going straight through it. This was mountainous country with not much edge before falling away to the valley below Beautiful hilly country with tea and banana plantations interspersed with pockets of bush. Loved the scenery, despaired the damage to the van.

We made Lake Banyoni, a few kms out of Kabali, as it became dark. Found this wonderful camp site where we are parked 3 metres from the edge of this crater lake. The Lonely Planet suggests the area could be a scene out of ‘The Hobbit’ we fully agree. In the morning we awoke to the sound of a school gong clanging in the distance, kids singing and the call of boatmen as the paddled their dugout canoes across the lake. It is cool but the sun still has a bite when it comes out. The camp is reputed to be one of the best in the country.

Leaving at Last

2008-06-23T21:41:00.000-07:00

Hi,
Been a bit slack with the posts this last week but there hasn't been much to say. The van is at last being reassembled and we should be on the road this morning. They just have to take it for a test drive.
The break has been quite enjoyable, it may put us back a week or so on our intended return to AU but I don't think that is a problem. We haven't booked the van onto the boat yet although I have been getting quotes. The service to AU from Durban is a weekly one which means we can be flexible.
The apartment we have stayed the last 4 nights has wireless but only on the balcony, nice to sit out here overlooking a railway track which has a continuous stream of people walking on. Much easier than walking on a busy road where footpaths are usually unformed, rough and muddy when it rains. The gradient is much easier as well. The track is raised in front of us so when a train comes along, which is quite frequently, the people have to move down the embankment a bit and hold on. Inconvenient but worth it.
We have been ale to catch up with world news while here, strange after not knowing what's been happening for so long.
All the best
Gary

Joan Has Her Say

2008-06-18T04:57:00.000-07:00

er Say14th June 2008

JOAN’S BLOG FROM AFRICA

Well I didn’t think I would get to write anything this trip as we have had so many slow internet services with just enough time for Gary to post his blog and that was it. We’ve also been on the move and not had much time when we stop.
Now we have an enforced stay at Kampala and time I thought I would finally write something.
The trip home has been very different than the one last year. Quite out of my comfort zone on some of the roads once we reached Africa. Even Kenya where we expected an improvement once we reached Nairobi was pretty rough. No wonder the poor old clutch went with the potholes and 38,000 kms, something had to go although we are a bit disappointed not getting through unscathed (which was hard to believe, considering the work other vehicles needed done). We had hoped it would continue at least to South Africa where they have VW parts.
At this stage we expect it to arrive from Nairobi early next week and then a day to replace.
We have caught up with a lot of washing, clothes and car plus sorting out, probably for the last time before coming home.
It’s very civilised here with cappuccinos and BLT’s to rival any at home and the big Supermarket is full of ‘comfort foods’ which helps.
At the moment Gary has just watched the All Blacks win over UK and now Australia is beating Ireland so he is very happy.
The Red Chilli Hideaway Camp where we are staying caters for Backpackers and a lot of volunteers enroute to their NGO’s. We met a girl from Iceland who had been here 3 months working with People with Disabilities associated with the degree she was doing at home.
We like the African people, especially the Ethiopians and Ugandans. I think Ethiopia has been my favourite country so far despite the poverty in the rural areas, the natural beauty and helpfulness of the people really appeals to us.
Travel is pretty easy here in Uganda .It helps to have English spoken so well as elsewhere in Africa and everyone has ‘easy to remember’ Christian names like Charles, Patrick even Dennis. Although they have African names too, people love it when you can remember their name. No-one seems to hassle but they are always willing to help if you need it.
It’s hard to believe we have been away 3 months and at times it seems much longer. We should hear from the shipping agent in Durban next week and get an idea of some sailing dates for the van but we aren’t in any hurry! No work to go back to!!
Now the 18th June, the parts have arrived and we hope to get the van back today or tomorrow. We were lucky to get a self contained cottage at the campsite, not exactly luxury but very convenient.
Then it’s on the road again to Tanzania via Rwanda.
Thank you all for your emails, travel gets tough at times and we appreciate hearing from you very much. It’s a thrill to get your news.
If I haven’t replied it’s because we lost our addresses when we had work done on the computer at home. Also we can’t access your address from the Blog Comments. So if you email to garyc@midcoast.com.au I will then have an address to reply to. Emails that are sent to our jelga@midcoast.com.au are forwarded by Jane but that means we don’t have your address to reply to.
I trust you are all well. Take care until we see you again
Joan

11th June. Red Chilli Hideaway, Kampala

2008-06-11T23:47:00.000-07:00

11^th June. Red Chilli Hideaway, Kampala

There would be worse places to have to spend a few days than Kampala. The Red Chilli camp site is also the base for backpackers and the overland trucks. It can get busy at times and rowdy. Luckily where we have the van parked is away from the throng and an ideal place to see what is happening. We were fortunate to be able to nurse our van back to the camp site meaning we can sleep in it while the parts are in transit. The garage is only a kilometre or so from the camp which again is good.

As I said earlier, the clutch began to do strange things the day we crossed into Uganda but seemed to right itself. However, going up to Murchison Falls NP it came progressively worse and by the time we got back to Kampala I was having to stop the engine before I could engage first. VW is not a common brand in Uganda but luckily they had the parts in Nairobi. I was just thinking of the number of times I’ve had to use the clutch on the roads we’ve driven on and I guess it would have been used many more times than I would’ve used if driving in Australia. On the bad roads it is usually a case of 2^nd & 3^rd gears with occasionally hitting 4^th for a short distance.

It’s given us time to do a couple of repairs; the outside table base broke for the 2^nd time and while in the NP we had light rain one night which I didn’t realize was pooling on the awning. Suddenly there was a crack and one of the wings that hold the awning out broke. I had angled the awning so as to let any water run off but couldn’t have been enough.

I temporarily fixed the awning, it should last until we get home, and had the table base fixed in the engineering shop down the road for the monstrous price of $7.

From here we head into Rwanda than into Tanzania. The roads in the western part of Tanzania should be the last challenge of any type for us. After that it should be asphalt all the way albeit potholed in places.

Hi

2008-06-10T04:37:00.000-07:00

One post and 4 images.
On our way back from the park it became harder to get the van into the gears. On checking here in Kampala this morning it appears there is no adjustment on this model and a new clutch plate has to be fitted, They are coming from Nairobi and it appears we will be here in the city for a few days. Be a chance to get some cleaning done but an expensive nuisance.

On the Way to the Falls

2008-06-10T04:35:00.000-07:00

Murchison Falls from Below

2008-06-10T04:32:00.000-07:00

In the Park

2008-06-10T04:30:00.000-07:00

At the Perfect Camp Site Above Murchison Falls

2008-06-10T04:26:00.000-07:00

6th June. Murchison Falls NP

2008-06-10T04:23:00.000-07:00

Once the most popular park in Uganda, the animal population was devastated during Idi Amin’s reign in the 70s & early 80s. The elephant population, for example, was reduced by poaching from over 15000 to just 860 beasts by the mid 80s. The numbers have increased since then and at the camp site where we are we watch warthogs, olive baboons and bush buck wander past 20 metres from the van. The big attraction of the park and one of the highlights of an African trip is to view the Murchison Falls where the White Nile pours through a crevice 8 metres wide. We are taking a boat trip to see this tomorrow. At the moment we are relaxing in an area opposite the camp Hq and bandas. Nice because we are the only ones camping.
The road here was so potholed in parts that you just stop the van and ponder which potholes will be the best to go through. The whole road was a mass of pot holes. We found out when we arrived that the road marked as not more than a track was in fact the better road.
7th June
Headlines: ‘Tourist Boat Sinks in Croc infested Waters’ It did happen but not the way the mind imagines. We went down to catch the boat up the Nile to the Falls at 9am only to find the 12 seater boat had sunk at its moorings. It was the tourist boat and there are big crocs all along this waterway. We were just pleased it didn’t go arse down half way to the Falls where the crocs are bigger and more feral. Though it did blow our plans a bit. The Parks bloke managed to organize the trip in the afternoon for us. It was quite an experience. The 9km stretch to the falls passes an endless parade of hippos bathing, wallowing, feeding, blowing plumes of vapour into the air. It was amazing. The crocs in this area are big. The biggest we saw was just below the falls and would measure a good 4.5-5 metres in length. Apart from those two there were many types of antelope, and great birdlife.
The Murchison Falls themselves were awesome. All that water going through a small crevice. Actually it’s not all the water of the Nile now as heavy flooding in the last couple of years forced some of the water to take an alternative route. Still, it is an amazing display of nature’s force.
We ate at the camp restaurant in the evening, a gathering place for backpackers getting away from the usual trail for a while. We were walking back to the van when one of the staff called out ‘Mrs Joan, be aware!’ Flashing his torch at a hippo that was nonchalantly grazing a few metres from where we would have crossed. You have to treat them with the greatest respect. I went for a pee behind the van last night when I disturbed one grazing a metre from the van. They are unpredictable and very dangerous.
8th June.
We caught the early ferry across the river, the game viewing is better on the northern bank where the Nile forms a delta leading into Lake Albert. This park is much bigger than Lake Nakuru, the animals are more spread out and there are more types of vegetation. We spent the morning meandering around the various trails finding many types of antelope, elephant, a pride of lions and a herd of Rothschild’s giraffes. Once again the bird life was prolific: one of the highlights was seeing a couple of crowned cranes, a large bird with a yellow crown on its head.
There is a camp site just above the Murchison Falls and what better way to spend the last night in the park than to camp overlooking the rapids before the water plunges down the fall. It is another fantastic spot with only someone in a tent as company. The rapids are fast and many, yet I watched a hippo nonchalantly making its way across from an island in the middle seemingly with no problems. Before coming to the camp site we went to the top of the falls where the water rushes over. Such force.
Occasionally there are moments in ones life that things seem to click into place. Times when you think it couldn’t get better. No negatives to dampen the feeling. There are usually not many and they are fleeting. As I watched down on the rushing waters of the Nile, a mild evening, looking forward to a well prepared meal and a glass of wine, no problems with the road, and after a great morning viewing the animals, this was one of mine.

Hi

2008-06-04T02:36:00.000-07:00

Two posts and a couple of photos. Connections slow here in Kampala and couldn't upload all images.
All the best,
Gary & Joan

What a Campsite. Near Source of White Nile

2008-06-04T02:32:00.000-07:00

Baboons at Lake Nakuru NP

2008-06-04T02:29:00.000-07:00

African Buffalo at Lake Nakuru NP

2008-06-04T02:23:00.000-07:00

2nd June. Jinja Uganda

2008-06-04T02:20:00.000-07:00

We weren’t able to post the earlier blog after we left the National Park. From there we went north to Lake Baringo where we spent 2 nights including my birthday. A fantastic place, no fences there for the hippos: you sit outside at night with a subdued light on, next thing you see these lumbering beasts appearing out of the water. We saw 4 of them on the land that night. Crocodiles are a regular feature of the lake with many lying on the edge of the water.
The birdlife up there was amazing. We hired a bird guide for a couple of hours who showed us over 40 different species in that short time. Our camp site was metres from the water.
From there we headed down to the Kakamega Forest. The last remaining area if rain forest in Kenya. I spent am hour or so wandering through the forest trying to see some of the species of birds and monkeys that inhabit the area with minor success. Still, it was invigorating breathing in that oxygenated air. David, one of the guides there was telling us about the troubles earlier in the year and how their area was affected. He said there were many killed that he knew and none of those were included in the official statistics of the death toll. He said ‘Come 2012 when the next election is to be held, I will not be voting if this is a result of casting your vote.’ At the camp site there we were the 2nd visitor since Dec 2007 and the first foreign stayers since the killing.
And so into Uganda. The border crossing went smoothly; the road improved for a while then became diabolical for 40 or so kms. I had the first inkling of trouble with the van today. The clutch pedal wasn’t always returning. That seemed to fix itself then began having trouble getting it into gear on the rough road. It seemed to improve ones the road surface became better. I will have it looked at in Kampala.
Tonight we are camped on the edge of the White Nile with the roar of the Bujagali Falls to lull us to sleep. They are an impressive sight. More a series of massive rapids than a waterfall. A pair of fish eagles have a nest in a tree on an island in the river while hundreds of bats skimmed threw the air as the sun set. This is a mecca for white water rafters though I can’t see ourselves risking such a venture. We just hope it doesn’t rain tonight as the track down to this site is red clay and quite steep. The rainy season has started.
3rd June Kampala
Well, after endeavouring to hear the sound of rain over the roar of the falls most of the night, come 4am I was wide awake and thought it best to leave. The sky was heavy cloud from horizon to horizon and lightning flashed in the distance. I had another look at the track out by torchlight and thought again that if it was to get any water on it we could be stuck. The night watchman assured me it wouldn’t rain (we were the only ones in the camp site) but after a couple more hours I pulled the plug and got out of there. As it turned out the cloud and lightning came to nothing, by the time we were 50kms down the road the sun was shining. You never can tell.
The mechanic felt the clutch was quite ok. That’s the trouble when you have an intermittent fault. It never occurs when it is being seen to.
We will rest in Kampala for a couple of nights and get some important jobs done like getting Joan’s hair seen to. Actually she saw to that this morning, very pleased with the result and not bad for $8. There are a couple of big shopping complexes here in Kampala catering for expats and the more affluent locals. Expensive but nice to be able to get things like muesli, smoked fish and nice cheeses.

28th May. Lake Naivasha, Kenya

2008-06-04T02:09:00.000-07:00

The electric fence is turned on at 6.30pm. It’s only 750mm high but we hope it works. Its purpose is to keep the hippos off the camping ground. You will have heard hippos are one of the most dangerous animals in Africa and that fence seems a little low for our liking. Hope they don’t have any power cuts.
We’re camped on the edge of Lake Naivasha, one of the Rift Valley lakes. After 4 days in Nairobi it’s good to get out into the country again. Yet our time at the Jungle Junction was most rewarding. It’s the place for the overlanders to congregate, do any work that needs to be done on their vehicle and catch up on the latest road and weather reports. Our Norwegian friends arrived yesterday; we actually waited for them to arrive before we took off as it could be the last time we meet in Africa. I hope they make it to AU.
This area is where the fighting and killings happened earlier in the year. We passed a displaced persons camp on the way to our camp ground. Welli, a worker at this camp ground, comes from the Lake Victoria area. He was saying he feared for his life while the violence occurred and spent 2 months in the camp. He said how terrible it was and how the visitors have stayed away since. We feel for these people. We have had nothing but help and openness from whoever we have spoken to in Kenya, it was a tragedy to know how it all went awry all because of politics.
Something that amused us was the buses in Nairobi. We had to go into the city centre to get a couple of things and had been advised to take the bus as parking was diabolical. No. 46 went past the end of the road. We waited with a group of locals, the first No 46 pulled in, something was called out by the conductor, one person hopped on but nobody else moved so we thought they must be waiting for another bus route and moved yo get on. No, we were stopped at the door and weren’t allowed to get in yet there were plenty of places to stand. When the next one came along something else was called out and everyone moved forward. When we were on we realized they only allow the number of people for the number of seats. The conductor took his job very seriously as did the inspector checking the tickets after we had received them. Later we heard the top of the range city buses even have TV screens in the back of the seats like the planes. This in a suburb to city bus! The Lonely Planet says the traffic in Kenya is bad; they haven’t been to Cairo or India. It’s been pretty good overall.
29th May. Lake Nakuru National Park
We visited this park 33 years ago. There seemed to be more animals this time. The park is famed for its flamingos that feed off the soda rich nutrients. There aren’t that many here at the moment but the pelicans are in vast numbers and most have a pink tinge from the same source that colours the flamingos. We counted 18 various animals on or drive around this afternoon ranging from white rhinos and African buffaloes to rock hyraxes and the smallest antelope, the dik dik.
We witnessed the law of the jungle on or way home when a silver backed jackal was attacking the rear quarters of a live Grant ’s gazelle. The gazelle must have been injured and was putting up a bit of a fight but I feel it will be dead by the morning. You feel like putting a bullet through the head of the gazelle to end its suffering but that interferes with the natural way of the bush.
Richard Dawkins would have his work cut out here. The missionaries started it way back but Kenya is now a country of churches and religions. Not just the usual ones we know but all these way out evangelical ones have thrown their hat into the ring. Every second sign along the road is advertising a religious school, church or church-run orphanage. It is quite mind boggling.
30th Morning.
Up early and out to see more animals. What a fantastic time: hyenas stalking an African buffalo, 2 Rothschilds giraffes, a family of ostriches, elands, it was really great;.
Will post this here at Nakuru.

Leaving Nairobi

2008-05-27T07:41:00.001-07:00

Hi there,
Just a quick post to say we are heading west tomorrow to some of the parks before we head into Uganda, Been a nice break here at Jungle Junctionand, best of camps for overland travellers.
Did a couple of small jobs on the van but generally stood up to the shocking roads pretty well.
All the best
Gary & Joan

The Latest. 24th May

2008-05-25T02:06:00.000-07:00

Hi there,
Now in Kenya where the connections are much faster.
Three posts and a couple of photos. We will be staying in Nairobi a couple more days and will post another before we leave.
Regards
Gary & Joan

Worst Road in Africa?

2008-05-25T02:05:00.000-07:00

Henry's Bakery, Marsabit

2008-05-25T02:03:00.000-07:00

23rd May. Isiolo, Kenya

2008-05-25T02:02:00.000-07:00

22nd May. Marsabit, Kenya
You might say, they’re travelling fast. Faster than we wanted or anticipated. When we headed south from Addis with our insurance organized we intended branching off and visiting the Omo Valley area. There are many tribes down there that are still animists and decorate their bodies in an array of tattoos and body paint. The women with the plates in their lips are also from this area.
However, as we headed south, massive storm clouds kept building up ahead of us and to the west and as this was the wet season for the south of the country we were apprehensive of what may follow. That night it poured for a couple of hours then eased off to steady rain all night. The road to the Omo Valley would be on clay for most of it but more importantly, once the road on the Kenyan side of the border has rain on it, it becomes impassable. With this in mind we kept driving to the border. A pity as that valley would have been one of the highlights of our trip I think. It s a good reason to come back to Ethiopia for 6 weeks, take in the Omo Valley as well as what we missed out in the north.
The 510 kilometre of road after crossing the Ethiopian/Kenyan border is reputed to be the worst road in Africa. At the moment we are at Marsabit which is a national park and village 250 kms along that road. Yesterday, for 8 hours, we suffered bone shattering corrugations, kilometres of sharp rock and deviations around strips of road that had been gouged out by trucks trying to get through during the rain of a couple of weeks ago. Being so low I had to try and ride on top of the high ridges between the vehicle tracks for kilometres at a time and when that wasn’t possible try and keep the right hand side of the vehicle hard up against the side of the ridge to protect the water tank on the left hand side of the van. It was draining stuff and very hard on the van. This stretch of road as well as the sand in Sudan are meant to be the hardest part of the journey. The journey south from Marsabit is just as bad we believe. Something to look forward to tomorrow. At least we won’t need an armed escort like we had yesterday: for 100 kms or so the road ran very close to the Ethiopian border and although we had been told attacks on travellers is rare these days, the police at the border insisted we have 2 armed soldiers in the back. We could’ve waited for the convoy which was to have left at 10am but that would have meant arriving in Marsabit in the dark and having to travel at the speed of the other vehicles which might have been to slow or worse, too fast.
So here we are at Henry the Swiss’s camp site. A haven after yesterday. Quite an enterprising bloke this Henry: apart from the camp he has a bakery on the land where he bakes 450 loaves of bread for the town each day as well as having a carpentry and joinery business running close by. The hot bread we had last night was heaven as were the muffins the also bake. We have hot showers, a tub to wash clothes and a good supply of Tusker beer in their fridge. What else could you ask for?

Well we made it. The 260kms today took longer than the other day, 9½ hours actually. Not so many sharp rocks today but endless corrugations that meant jolting along at 25kph the whole time. But even this will change in the near future as a Chinese contractor has started upgrading the road for half the distance to the border. Soon there will be asphalt from Cairo to Cape Town.
We had our distractions along the way that made it interesting: a family of Somali Ostriches with about 20 chicks running along the road, a group of baboons crossing our path, dik diks, the smallest antelope, hopping across the road, groups of Vulturine Guinea Fowl busy passing the time of day in the middle of the gravel, plus endless other birds flying off into the bush. Adam gave me a book on the birds of East Africa before we left, I was wondering if I would make use of it but it has proven invaluable. There are 1388 species of bird recorded n East Africa and when you look through the coloured illustrations you realize what a treasure trove there is here. To be able to name what you have just seen makes it that much more interesting.
We head to Nairobi tomorrow where I will be able to catch up with the blogs.

Gelada Baboons, on edge of Rift Valley

2008-05-25T02:00:00.000-07:00

17th May, Addis Ababa

2008-05-25T01:59:00.000-07:00

A change of plans. We intended to sweep north from Gondar to the Simien Mountains and Axum then on down to Addis stopping off at the churches at Lalibella on the way. With the rains starting and a bad road for half that distance we decided to head on down to Addis where we are ensconced in the small yard of the Wanza Hotel. On the way we spent a couple of nights at Lake Tana as mentioned in the earlier blog then went south stopping a night in a delightful complex in the process of being finished overlooking a branch of the Rift Valley. It would be at least 5,000 feet to the bottom of the valley. Tribes of monkeys were fighting on the cliffs while eagles and vultures floated above including the massive Lammergeyer with its 3 metre wing span. During the day we had dropped into the main Rift Valley where the Blue Nile wends its way. The road down took about 10 kms to get to the bottom and a further 10 getting up the other side. It is an amazing spectacle and when you realize this split in the earth’s surface runs all the way from the Dead Sea in Jordan down to Mozambique in southern Africa. With aid from Japan the road through the Valley was being improved and a new bridge is being built over the Nile.
Ethiopia is an amazing country; so mountainous yet most of it cultivated. At the moment the ground has been ploughed and sown, all ready for the rains to come. I hope they don’t fail like they do some years. Not many cars, mostly minibuses and trucks, the people seem to walk everywhere. It’s nothing for them to walk 20kms to the markets and driving through the towns one has to carefully weave a path through the people. Donkeys are used a lot, the sheep are intelligent keeping an eye on the traffic but you still have to keep an eye on the odd independent one that decides the grass is greener elsewhere.
Ethiopian food is very interesting and should be tried: the staple food is injeera, made from fermented yeast. It’s like a very flat pancake that overflows the plate and on which the other food is placed. You tear off a bit of injeera with your right hand then use it to scoop up the other food sitting on top. Difficult at first but quite easy after you get the hang of it. Beber is a potent paste like harissa that is added to many of the dishes bringing the eater out in a hot sweat after the first few mouth fulls. The Italians were here for a few years in the ‘30s and their legacy is the pasta dishes that are always on the menu and the coffee machines that can be found in the smallest of bars or cafes. The coffee grown in the country is reputed to be the best in the world and their macchiatos are to die for.
We will stay here until Monday when I have to organize the Yellow Card 3rd party insurance that covers most of Southern Africa. It saves having to take it out on each border.

Papyrus Boat, Lake Tane, Ethiopia

2008-05-25T01:57:00.000-07:00

13th May. Gondar, Ethiopia

2008-05-25T01:56:00.000-07:00

Oh blessed cool. At 2200 metres we are putting our jerseys on of an evening. Last night the water in the tank was so hot it was almost impossible using it to brush our teeth. We camped on the Ethiopian side of the border last night, crossing over from Sudan late of an evening. The authorities were very quick and courteous. The Ethiopian side displayed the worst amount of litter and plastic I think we have ever seen. This morning we travelled the 230kms on to Gondar climbing all the time. A new road is being pushed through from Gondar to the border, once this is finished and the road from Wadi Halfa to Dongola in Sudan is completed, say in 5 years time, the adventure will be taken out of the trans African Odyssey. I’m not saying it’s a bad thing, the locals deserve it, but this section is one of the most difficult when heading to Cape Town
As we climbed the landscape changed from parched plains to lush hills carrying vast herds of cattle. The locals walk a lot here. Cars are few and the buses infrequent. No matter how isolated you are there will be people walking along the road.
Time is unique here: Ethiopia has a 13 month calendar and the time is 6 hours ahead of the surrounding countries. At the bank, Joan’s watch said 1.45pm (Sudan time), the clock on the wall showed 7.45pm. We are going to bed now at 2 o’clock n the morning.
We saw Mark fleetingly as he headed south to Addis. He was camped near the river in Khartoum and had a wonderful view of the tanks flying past and explosions on the other side of the river when the Darfur crowd attacked. He was quite scared, we don’t blame him. Reider and Ellen caught up with us here in Gondar. They are also heading south tomorrow, we will then be on our own. Been good with them. We haven’t always travelled together but knowing someone is following give a sense of security. We hope they visit us in AU.
No broadband here, I will post this tomorrow but images take too long.
14th. Bahir Dar, Lake Tana.
When planning this trip our time frame was dependent on the rainy season in Ethiopia. They have a long wet season though not always falling for the full duration. When we came up to the plateau yesterday large rain clouds built ominously in the west and before we reached Gondar had a few spits. Reider who was a few hours behind us said the last few kilometres up to the plateau was wet from the rain and vehicles were slipping and sliding all over the place. Once the rain hits most traffic off the asphalt comes to a standstill.
Our plan was to head north from Gondar to visit the Simian Mountains and Axum before heading south to Addis but today the whole western sky was black which didn’t help our chances of getting to Axum without running into problems. The road north is quite rough I believe. At the moment we are camped on the shores of Lake Tana, the source of the Blue Nile. We headed south to visit the lake and the Blue Nile Falls before going north but will find out tomorrow if the ran will affect our plans. Our option is to keep going to Addis and use that time in maybe visiting Zanzibar instead.
15th May
Spent the morning on the lake visiting monasteries on some of the islands. Very interesting. The Coptic religion is very strong in the country. On the lake we passed a few raft oats made out of papyrus. They were being paddled from one side of the lake to the town on the other laden down with a pile of wood. The boats themselves were almost under water

Quick update

2008-05-16T13:35:00.000-07:00

This is Joan and Gary's eldest son Adam, posting a quick update for them as their current part of the world seems to have lagged behind in the internet revolution. They sent me a text message to say that they're now in Ethiopia and all is well, they're just having trouble getting online to update the blog.

The Natives are Restless

2008-05-11T11:21:00.000-07:00

Hi there,
For those who have heard about the unrest in Khartoum a quick note to say the curfew has been partially lifted and we hope to head off tomorrow for Ethiopia. We were able to get the visas today which surprised us as the city is completely closed down with police and army on most intersections. The fighting was on the western side of the river, we are on the eastern.
On the bright side, the hotel we have stayed in the last couple of days has an Indian restaurant that served the best Indian food we have tasted in many a year.
We have also caught up with Reidar and Ellen and are travelling together tomorrow.
All the best
Gary & Joan

All OK

2008-05-11T00:23:00.002-07:00

Hi there,
three posts and many photos following.
Everything ok here, in a nice hotel away from violence. Hope to get Ethiopian visas today but the embassy might be closed. Will get ouit of Khartoum as soon as we have the visas.
Gary

Meroe Pyramids, Sudan

2008-05-11T00:23:00.001-07:00

See the van? Crossing Nile

2008-05-11T00:21:00.002-07:00

Karima Pyramids

2008-05-11T00:21:00.001-07:00

10th May Khartoum

2008-05-11T00:19:00.002-07:00

Welcome to Khartoum. We have just had a notice slipped under our door alerting us there is a 24 hour curfew in Khartoum due to the imminent arrival of a military rebel force from Darfur.
After 12 days in our van in the heat or sleeping in unsavoury alternatives we had decided to appreciate A/C for a couple of days. Now this happens.
Yesterday was another eventful day. We broke camp early as we wanted to at least get to Karima before nightfall. The track led across a small desert the surface of which was fairly firm. The problem was that it was very difficult knowing which way we should be heading, there were so many tracks. We passed a couple of women who signalled us for a lift, I though that would be a good way of staying on the right track. That proved the case as Mark, who had gone on, got lost even with a GPS that gave his position pretty well. He had to go cross country to get out. After the desert he missed the new road being built and reached Dongola, where we were to meet, after us. He had travelled along the old road that passed through all the villages and was thick sand in places. He had one nasty spill and was trapped under his bike until a group of women helped lift the bike.
From Dongola there is a new asphalt road across the Nubian Desert to Karima. We though of spending the night there but temps were still in the 50s, a good excuse to travel on to Atbara, a further 280kms on. Atbara is on the eastern side of the Nile, there are no bridges across at that point, just 2 ferries. I don’t know what the problem was but they refused to take us across. We decided to camp there the night and go across in the morning. After a 2 hour wait we got the gist that there may not be a ferry for quite some time, two of the trucks that were waiting took off, beckoning us to follow. I knew there was another ferry some 20kms upstream from where we were and guessed that that was where they were heading. But boy what a drive. They went cross country along dry river beds, around irrigation canals, through sections of bull dust. I would never have found our way there on our own.
This ferry was working and we were able to cross on the second crossing along with donkey carts, a couple of trucks and many locals. After a further ½ hour trying to find the asphalt road we finally made it and had an uneventful drive to Khartoum. On the way we passed a group of funerary pyramids built a few kilometres from the Nile. Very impressive.

Free at Last

2008-05-11T00:19:00.001-07:00

2008-05-11T00:18:00.000-07:00

Stuck in Sand. Worse than it Looks

2008-05-11T00:17:00.000-07:00