27th June

25^th June. Queen Elizabeth NP

Gosh it’s good to be on the road again. We finally left Kampala mid afternoon yesterday, Tuesday 24^th. The final problem was I had given a deposit to cover the parts and part of the labour when I received the bill I realized I had given about $500 too much. The bill was less than we expected. They didn’t have enough cash on hand and gave me a cheque which they said I cold cash at the local bank. Not so, the Manager said so back we go to Coopers and after quite a hassle and an annoyed coy director we walked away with the cash.

The road south to Masaka was quite interesting: very green, banana plantations and areas of 2 metre tall papyrus growing on the marshy land that edged Lake Victoria. The camp site at Masaka was wonderful, out of town, quiet and a great bloke in charge. Just what we needed for our first night back in the van.

I mentioned in an earlier post, Masaka was the town where the minister that is a friend of Joan’s Anglican Church back in Bellingen was to be contacted. We hadn’t had a reply from an email sent to his brother or a postcard sent to his address but we managed to find the Anglican church with the aid of Joseph the camp site owner. It transpired that Rev Dan is doing a 3 yr course at a town some 200kms away. We met the arch deacon, Dan’s wife Justine and their 2 older children and hope to catch up with the man himself when we go through Kibali, where he is studying, before we cross the Rwandan border. We were shown over the church school and learnt a few details from the headmaster. They were a great crowd and it will be nice for Joan to be able to report back to her church the situation we found.

Then it was on to Queen Elizabeth NP. It borders the Congo and the legendary Mountains of the Moon. Something I have always wanted to see. Ptolemy the Alexandrian explorer spoke of these snow clad mountains that sat on the equator, nobody believed that such a thing cold possibly occur. It wasn’t until 1887 when Stanley, the bloke who found Livingstone, saw them and reported back to the Royal Geographical Society did they realize they existed. We hope to see them tomorrow.

The park itself was another one destroyed by Amin’s army but is well on the way to recovery. Driving in we saw quite an array of animals.

For those interested. I am having an article printed in the July issue of the Australian Caravan & Motorhome Magazine. It’s about the paperwork necessary for shipping a vehicle overseas. Just in case any one is interested. I thought they may have been interested in further articles on touring overseas but they haven’t replied to my queries. I thought it would be a change to the articles you read all the time about Australian destinations, after all, there is other countries worth seeing as well as AU. Perhaps there will be some emails to the editor asking for follow ups on travelling in a campervan overseas that may make him show more interest.

27^th June.

Well yesterday was not our best of days. The animals in the park were few, the Ruwenzoris were covered by low cloud, the road south through the park was very rough at times then the road from the end of the park to Kabali was good until we were told that a bridge was down and we would either have to drive via this terrible track to another road or take a long detour to get to Kabali.

We wondered why there was no traffic on the last stretch of road but had asked a couple of locals who assured us the road we were on was the correct one, there were no signs to show a detour and it wasn’t until we asked a bloke in the middle of nowhere did we realize our error. We were on a high hill and he was able to point out the road we had to get to in the distance. The track was narrow and rough with washouts and a stream to cross on this bridge that had half the lengthwise running timbers missing. I imagined our 3 tonne vehicle going straight through it. This was mountainous country with not much edge before falling away to the valley below Beautiful hilly country with tea and banana plantations interspersed with pockets of bush. Loved the scenery, despaired the damage to the van.

We made Lake Banyoni, a few kms out of Kabali, as it became dark. Found this wonderful camp site where we are parked 3 metres from the edge of this crater lake. The Lonely Planet suggests the area could be a scene out of ‘The Hobbit’ we fully agree. In the morning we awoke to the sound of a school gong clanging in the distance, kids singing and the call of boatmen as the paddled their dugout canoes across the lake. It is cool but the sun still has a bite when it comes out. The camp is reputed to be one of the best in the country.

Leaving at Last

Hi,
Been a bit slack with the posts this last week but there hasn't been much to say. The van is at last being reassembled and we should be on the road this morning. They just have to take it for a test drive.
The break has been quite enjoyable, it may put us back a week or so on our intended return to AU but I don't think that is a problem. We haven't booked the van onto the boat yet although I have been getting quotes. The service to AU from Durban is a weekly one which means we can be flexible.
The apartment we have stayed the last 4 nights has wireless but only on the balcony, nice to sit out here overlooking a railway track which has a continuous stream of people walking on. Much easier than walking on a busy road where footpaths are usually unformed, rough and muddy when it rains. The gradient is much easier as well. The track is raised in front of us so when a train comes along, which is quite frequently, the people have to move down the embankment a bit and hold on. Inconvenient but worth it.
We have been ale to catch up with world news while here, strange after not knowing what's been happening for so long.
All the best
Gary

Joan Has Her Say

er Say14th June 2008

JOAN’S BLOG FROM AFRICA


Well I didn’t think I would get to write anything this trip as we have had so many slow internet services with just enough time for Gary to post his blog and that was it. We’ve also been on the move and not had much time when we stop.
Now we have an enforced stay at Kampala and time I thought I would finally write something.
The trip home has been very different than the one last year. Quite out of my comfort zone on some of the roads once we reached Africa. Even Kenya where we expected an improvement once we reached Nairobi was pretty rough. No wonder the poor old clutch went with the potholes and 38,000 kms, something had to go although we are a bit disappointed not getting through unscathed (which was hard to believe, considering the work other vehicles needed done). We had hoped it would continue at least to South Africa where they have VW parts.
At this stage we expect it to arrive from Nairobi early next week and then a day to replace.
We have caught up with a lot of washing, clothes and car plus sorting out, probably for the last time before coming home.
It’s very civilised here with cappuccinos and BLT’s to rival any at home and the big Supermarket is full of ‘comfort foods’ which helps.
At the moment Gary has just watched the All Blacks win over UK and now Australia is beating Ireland so he is very happy.
The Red Chilli Hideaway Camp where we are staying caters for Backpackers and a lot of volunteers enroute to their NGO’s. We met a girl from Iceland who had been here 3 months working with People with Disabilities associated with the degree she was doing at home.
We like the African people, especially the Ethiopians and Ugandans. I think Ethiopia has been my favourite country so far despite the poverty in the rural areas, the natural beauty and helpfulness of the people really appeals to us.
Travel is pretty easy here in Uganda .It helps to have English spoken so well as elsewhere in Africa and everyone has ‘easy to remember’ Christian names like Charles, Patrick even Dennis. Although they have African names too, people love it when you can remember their name. No-one seems to hassle but they are always willing to help if you need it.
It’s hard to believe we have been away 3 months and at times it seems much longer. We should hear from the shipping agent in Durban next week and get an idea of some sailing dates for the van but we aren’t in any hurry! No work to go back to!!
Now the 18th June, the parts have arrived and we hope to get the van back today or tomorrow. We were lucky to get a self contained cottage at the campsite, not exactly luxury but very convenient.
Then it’s on the road again to Tanzania via Rwanda.
Thank you all for your emails, travel gets tough at times and we appreciate hearing from you very much. It’s a thrill to get your news.
If I haven’t replied it’s because we lost our addresses when we had work done on the computer at home. Also we can’t access your address from the Blog Comments. So if you email to garyc@midcoast.com.au I will then have an address to reply to. Emails that are sent to our jelga@midcoast.com.au are forwarded by Jane but that means we don’t have your address to reply to.
I trust you are all well. Take care until we see you again
Joan

11th June. Red Chilli Hideaway, Kampala

11^th June. Red Chilli Hideaway, Kampala

There would be worse places to have to spend a few days than Kampala. The Red Chilli camp site is also the base for backpackers and the overland trucks. It can get busy at times and rowdy. Luckily where we have the van parked is away from the throng and an ideal place to see what is happening. We were fortunate to be able to nurse our van back to the camp site meaning we can sleep in it while the parts are in transit. The garage is only a kilometre or so from the camp which again is good.

As I said earlier, the clutch began to do strange things the day we crossed into Uganda but seemed to right itself. However, going up to Murchison Falls NP it came progressively worse and by the time we got back to Kampala I was having to stop the engine before I could engage first. VW is not a common brand in Uganda but luckily they had the parts in Nairobi. I was just thinking of the number of times I’ve had to use the clutch on the roads we’ve driven on and I guess it would have been used many more times than I would’ve used if driving in Australia. On the bad roads it is usually a case of 2^nd & 3^rd gears with occasionally hitting 4^th for a short distance.

It’s given us time to do a couple of repairs; the outside table base broke for the 2^nd time and while in the NP we had light rain one night which I didn’t realize was pooling on the awning. Suddenly there was a crack and one of the wings that hold the awning out broke. I had angled the awning so as to let any water run off but couldn’t have been enough.

I temporarily fixed the awning, it should last until we get home, and had the table base fixed in the engineering shop down the road for the monstrous price of $7.

From here we head into Rwanda than into Tanzania. The roads in the western part of Tanzania should be the last challenge of any type for us. After that it should be asphalt all the way albeit potholed in places.

Hi

One post and 4 images.
On our way back from the park it became harder to get the van into the gears. On checking here in Kampala this morning it appears there is no adjustment on this model and a new clutch plate has to be fitted, They are coming from Nairobi and it appears we will be here in the city for a few days. Be a chance to get some cleaning done but an expensive nuisance.

On the Way to the Falls

Murchison Falls from Below

In the Park

At the Perfect Camp Site Above Murchison Falls

6th June. Murchison Falls NP

Once the most popular park in Uganda, the animal population was devastated during Idi Amin’s reign in the 70s & early 80s. The elephant population, for example, was reduced by poaching from over 15000 to just 860 beasts by the mid 80s. The numbers have increased since then and at the camp site where we are we watch warthogs, olive baboons and bush buck wander past 20 metres from the van. The big attraction of the park and one of the highlights of an African trip is to view the Murchison Falls where the White Nile pours through a crevice 8 metres wide. We are taking a boat trip to see this tomorrow. At the moment we are relaxing in an area opposite the camp Hq and bandas. Nice because we are the only ones camping.
The road here was so potholed in parts that you just stop the van and ponder which potholes will be the best to go through. The whole road was a mass of pot holes. We found out when we arrived that the road marked as not more than a track was in fact the better road.
7th June
Headlines: ‘Tourist Boat Sinks in Croc infested Waters’ It did happen but not the way the mind imagines. We went down to catch the boat up the Nile to the Falls at 9am only to find the 12 seater boat had sunk at its moorings. It was the tourist boat and there are big crocs all along this waterway. We were just pleased it didn’t go arse down half way to the Falls where the crocs are bigger and more feral. Though it did blow our plans a bit. The Parks bloke managed to organize the trip in the afternoon for us. It was quite an experience. The 9km stretch to the falls passes an endless parade of hippos bathing, wallowing, feeding, blowing plumes of vapour into the air. It was amazing. The crocs in this area are big. The biggest we saw was just below the falls and would measure a good 4.5-5 metres in length. Apart from those two there were many types of antelope, and great birdlife.
The Murchison Falls themselves were awesome. All that water going through a small crevice. Actually it’s not all the water of the Nile now as heavy flooding in the last couple of years forced some of the water to take an alternative route. Still, it is an amazing display of nature’s force.
We ate at the camp restaurant in the evening, a gathering place for backpackers getting away from the usual trail for a while. We were walking back to the van when one of the staff called out ‘Mrs Joan, be aware!’ Flashing his torch at a hippo that was nonchalantly grazing a few metres from where we would have crossed. You have to treat them with the greatest respect. I went for a pee behind the van last night when I disturbed one grazing a metre from the van. They are unpredictable and very dangerous.
8th June.
We caught the early ferry across the river, the game viewing is better on the northern bank where the Nile forms a delta leading into Lake Albert. This park is much bigger than Lake Nakuru, the animals are more spread out and there are more types of vegetation. We spent the morning meandering around the various trails finding many types of antelope, elephant, a pride of lions and a herd of Rothschild’s giraffes. Once again the bird life was prolific: one of the highlights was seeing a couple of crowned cranes, a large bird with a yellow crown on its head.
There is a camp site just above the Murchison Falls and what better way to spend the last night in the park than to camp overlooking the rapids before the water plunges down the fall. It is another fantastic spot with only someone in a tent as company. The rapids are fast and many, yet I watched a hippo nonchalantly making its way across from an island in the middle seemingly with no problems. Before coming to the camp site we went to the top of the falls where the water rushes over. Such force.
Occasionally there are moments in ones life that things seem to click into place. Times when you think it couldn’t get better. No negatives to dampen the feeling. There are usually not many and they are fleeting. As I watched down on the rushing waters of the Nile, a mild evening, looking forward to a well prepared meal and a glass of wine, no problems with the road, and after a great morning viewing the animals, this was one of mine.

Hi

Two posts and a couple of photos. Connections slow here in Kampala and couldn't upload all images.
All the best,
Gary & Joan

What a Campsite. Near Source of White Nile

Baboons at Lake Nakuru NP

African Buffalo at Lake Nakuru NP

2nd June. Jinja Uganda

We weren’t able to post the earlier blog after we left the National Park. From there we went north to Lake Baringo where we spent 2 nights including my birthday. A fantastic place, no fences there for the hippos: you sit outside at night with a subdued light on, next thing you see these lumbering beasts appearing out of the water. We saw 4 of them on the land that night. Crocodiles are a regular feature of the lake with many lying on the edge of the water.
The birdlife up there was amazing. We hired a bird guide for a couple of hours who showed us over 40 different species in that short time. Our camp site was metres from the water.
From there we headed down to the Kakamega Forest. The last remaining area if rain forest in Kenya. I spent am hour or so wandering through the forest trying to see some of the species of birds and monkeys that inhabit the area with minor success. Still, it was invigorating breathing in that oxygenated air. David, one of the guides there was telling us about the troubles earlier in the year and how their area was affected. He said there were many killed that he knew and none of those were included in the official statistics of the death toll. He said ‘Come 2012 when the next election is to be held, I will not be voting if this is a result of casting your vote.’ At the camp site there we were the 2nd visitor since Dec 2007 and the first foreign stayers since the killing.
And so into Uganda. The border crossing went smoothly; the road improved for a while then became diabolical for 40 or so kms. I had the first inkling of trouble with the van today. The clutch pedal wasn’t always returning. That seemed to fix itself then began having trouble getting it into gear on the rough road. It seemed to improve ones the road surface became better. I will have it looked at in Kampala.
Tonight we are camped on the edge of the White Nile with the roar of the Bujagali Falls to lull us to sleep. They are an impressive sight. More a series of massive rapids than a waterfall. A pair of fish eagles have a nest in a tree on an island in the river while hundreds of bats skimmed threw the air as the sun set. This is a mecca for white water rafters though I can’t see ourselves risking such a venture. We just hope it doesn’t rain tonight as the track down to this site is red clay and quite steep. The rainy season has started.
3rd June Kampala
Well, after endeavouring to hear the sound of rain over the roar of the falls most of the night, come 4am I was wide awake and thought it best to leave. The sky was heavy cloud from horizon to horizon and lightning flashed in the distance. I had another look at the track out by torchlight and thought again that if it was to get any water on it we could be stuck. The night watchman assured me it wouldn’t rain (we were the only ones in the camp site) but after a couple more hours I pulled the plug and got out of there. As it turned out the cloud and lightning came to nothing, by the time we were 50kms down the road the sun was shining. You never can tell.
The mechanic felt the clutch was quite ok. That’s the trouble when you have an intermittent fault. It never occurs when it is being seen to.
We will rest in Kampala for a couple of nights and get some important jobs done like getting Joan’s hair seen to. Actually she saw to that this morning, very pleased with the result and not bad for $8. There are a couple of big shopping complexes here in Kampala catering for expats and the more affluent locals. Expensive but nice to be able to get things like muesli, smoked fish and nice cheeses.

28th May. Lake Naivasha, Kenya

The electric fence is turned on at 6.30pm. It’s only 750mm high but we hope it works. Its purpose is to keep the hippos off the camping ground. You will have heard hippos are one of the most dangerous animals in Africa and that fence seems a little low for our liking. Hope they don’t have any power cuts.
We’re camped on the edge of Lake Naivasha, one of the Rift Valley lakes. After 4 days in Nairobi it’s good to get out into the country again. Yet our time at the Jungle Junction was most rewarding. It’s the place for the overlanders to congregate, do any work that needs to be done on their vehicle and catch up on the latest road and weather reports. Our Norwegian friends arrived yesterday; we actually waited for them to arrive before we took off as it could be the last time we meet in Africa. I hope they make it to AU.
This area is where the fighting and killings happened earlier in the year. We passed a displaced persons camp on the way to our camp ground. Welli, a worker at this camp ground, comes from the Lake Victoria area. He was saying he feared for his life while the violence occurred and spent 2 months in the camp. He said how terrible it was and how the visitors have stayed away since. We feel for these people. We have had nothing but help and openness from whoever we have spoken to in Kenya, it was a tragedy to know how it all went awry all because of politics.
Something that amused us was the buses in Nairobi. We had to go into the city centre to get a couple of things and had been advised to take the bus as parking was diabolical. No. 46 went past the end of the road. We waited with a group of locals, the first No 46 pulled in, something was called out by the conductor, one person hopped on but nobody else moved so we thought they must be waiting for another bus route and moved yo get on. No, we were stopped at the door and weren’t allowed to get in yet there were plenty of places to stand. When the next one came along something else was called out and everyone moved forward. When we were on we realized they only allow the number of people for the number of seats. The conductor took his job very seriously as did the inspector checking the tickets after we had received them. Later we heard the top of the range city buses even have TV screens in the back of the seats like the planes. This in a suburb to city bus! The Lonely Planet says the traffic in Kenya is bad; they haven’t been to Cairo or India. It’s been pretty good overall.
29th May. Lake Nakuru National Park
We visited this park 33 years ago. There seemed to be more animals this time. The park is famed for its flamingos that feed off the soda rich nutrients. There aren’t that many here at the moment but the pelicans are in vast numbers and most have a pink tinge from the same source that colours the flamingos. We counted 18 various animals on or drive around this afternoon ranging from white rhinos and African buffaloes to rock hyraxes and the smallest antelope, the dik dik.
We witnessed the law of the jungle on or way home when a silver backed jackal was attacking the rear quarters of a live Grant ’s gazelle. The gazelle must have been injured and was putting up a bit of a fight but I feel it will be dead by the morning. You feel like putting a bullet through the head of the gazelle to end its suffering but that interferes with the natural way of the bush.
Richard Dawkins would have his work cut out here. The missionaries started it way back but Kenya is now a country of churches and religions. Not just the usual ones we know but all these way out evangelical ones have thrown their hat into the ring. Every second sign along the road is advertising a religious school, church or church-run orphanage. It is quite mind boggling.
30th Morning.
Up early and out to see more animals. What a fantastic time: hyenas stalking an African buffalo, 2 Rothschilds giraffes, a family of ostriches, elands, it was really great;.
Will post this here at Nakuru.