Hi,
4 Posts and a few images. Hope all is well. Love Gary & Joan
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
28th April Hurghada, Gulf of Suez
A long 663km drive today though the last 200kms was on a good road with no traffic. In fact the roads here in Egypt have been very good overall and I’m even working out the ways of the Egyptian drivers and what it means when they use their indicators. When they indicate it usually means they are staying in the lane they are indicating but not always. Occasionally it means they are actually turning in the direction indicated. I now think driving in Cairo in the late afternoon rush hour would beat the worst of the Indian experiences. We have seen cars side swiping each other, a taxi we were in was rammed from the rear and today we counted 5 accidents on the road. That’s apart from the many close calls.
Tonight we are camped on the edge of the Gulf of Suez with the city of Hurghada in the distance. We went looking for a place near the water and came upon this family that were out for the day. After drinking their tea and eating their dolmades and cabbage rolls they arranged with a nearby security bloke for us to stay the night here. We paid him 20EP ($4) and have to flash our lights in his direction if we get attacked during the night. He lives in a hut nearby. Sounds like a good scheme as long as Akmed stays awake all night which I doubt.
I thought this was a new area for me then remembered when we left Luxor 42 years ago Neil & Jenni caught the train back to Cairo while I hitch hiked along this road. It was a night trip in trucks, arriving in Cairo in the early hours of the morning. I now am seeing what I missed. In fact the water along this stretch is beautifully clear with good diving. A couple of the family members whom we met are coming back tonight to do some craying. He showed us some photos of the monsters he has caught recently.
Later
I needn’t have worried about Akmed not keeping an eye on us: he spent the night sleeping in the sand a few metres from the van with his trusty dog. We met his wife in the morning.
Now in Luxor where I can post these. The last 250kms of the journey this morning was as part of a police convoy that numbered about 20 vehicles. They travelled at a good speed though.
Tonight we are camped on the edge of the Gulf of Suez with the city of Hurghada in the distance. We went looking for a place near the water and came upon this family that were out for the day. After drinking their tea and eating their dolmades and cabbage rolls they arranged with a nearby security bloke for us to stay the night here. We paid him 20EP ($4) and have to flash our lights in his direction if we get attacked during the night. He lives in a hut nearby. Sounds like a good scheme as long as Akmed stays awake all night which I doubt.
I thought this was a new area for me then remembered when we left Luxor 42 years ago Neil & Jenni caught the train back to Cairo while I hitch hiked along this road. It was a night trip in trucks, arriving in Cairo in the early hours of the morning. I now am seeing what I missed. In fact the water along this stretch is beautifully clear with good diving. A couple of the family members whom we met are coming back tonight to do some craying. He showed us some photos of the monsters he has caught recently.
Later
I needn’t have worried about Akmed not keeping an eye on us: he spent the night sleeping in the sand a few metres from the van with his trusty dog. We met his wife in the morning.
Now in Luxor where I can post these. The last 250kms of the journey this morning was as part of a police convoy that numbered about 20 vehicles. They travelled at a good speed though.
27th April Alexandria
27th April. Alexandria
Alexandria is a lovely city, a little seedy on the edges but with a relaxed stylet that was possible to find in the northern shores of the Mediterranean before being overrun by the vacationing hordes. The Patisseries are the place to spend an hour or two eating some splendid food.
We spent the morning at the Alexandria Bibliotheca. The original Alexandria Library was reputed to be the best in the known world until sacked by the Assyrians or someone in 3BC. The new building was erected to try and recapture some of that prestige. A beautiful structure well patronized by the locals. The afternoon was spent doing a bit of sightseeing: the Catacombs and the incorrectly named Pompeii’s Column.
The only memory I have of Alexandria from my time in Egypt 42 years ago was going to the movies with our friends Neil & Jenni to see the 2nd Beatle movie ‘Help.’ The theatre wasn’t full but a fair crowd but we were the only ones understanding and laughing at the jokes and antics of the Fab Four. Perhaps something was lost in translation.
The lifts in Alexandria are interesting. They all seem to be the old style with a cage outside and wooden panels on the inside of the carriage. We went to quite a few hotels when we fist arrived yesterday and they all seemed to have them.
It’s been a relaxing day, tomorrow we start the long drive down to Luxor.
Alexandria is a lovely city, a little seedy on the edges but with a relaxed stylet that was possible to find in the northern shores of the Mediterranean before being overrun by the vacationing hordes. The Patisseries are the place to spend an hour or two eating some splendid food.
We spent the morning at the Alexandria Bibliotheca. The original Alexandria Library was reputed to be the best in the known world until sacked by the Assyrians or someone in 3BC. The new building was erected to try and recapture some of that prestige. A beautiful structure well patronized by the locals. The afternoon was spent doing a bit of sightseeing: the Catacombs and the incorrectly named Pompeii’s Column.
The only memory I have of Alexandria from my time in Egypt 42 years ago was going to the movies with our friends Neil & Jenni to see the 2nd Beatle movie ‘Help.’ The theatre wasn’t full but a fair crowd but we were the only ones understanding and laughing at the jokes and antics of the Fab Four. Perhaps something was lost in translation.
The lifts in Alexandria are interesting. They all seem to be the old style with a cage outside and wooden panels on the inside of the carriage. We went to quite a few hotels when we fist arrived yesterday and they all seemed to have them.
It’s been a relaxing day, tomorrow we start the long drive down to Luxor.
27th April Alexandria
Thirty odd kilometres south of Cairo are a string of pyramids less visited than the Great Pyramids of Giza. Of these the Stepped Pyramid of Zoser at Saqqara is the most well known. It is the oldest monument built by man and stands on the edge of the Western Desert. In fact from the base of it it’s easy on a clear day to see across the Nile Valley to the desert on the other side. Makes you realize just how narrow a stretch of cultivated land they have to feed their people. That is apart from the Nile Delta to the north.
We headed down to this area yesterday before heading north to Alexandria. South of Saqqara we also visited the Bent Pyramid and the Red Pyramid. The former has sides that have a distinct bend a third of the way up, I guess the pharaoh wanted to be a little different.
We intended heading north to Alexandria then do a sweep around to Port Said, Suez then head down the Gulf of Suez but after talking to one of the tour bus drivers we think we might take the Desert Road to the west of the Nile Valley. He reckoned it was a good road, not much traffic and faster. It means heading back to Cairo though.
In the meantime we will spend the day looking around this Mediterranean city. We got into a bit of a spot yesterday after we had arrived. There are no camp sites here so decided to suss out the hotels. We had forgotten it is the Coptic & Orthodox Easter this weekend and most hotels were full. We finally found one, a bit of a dive but had no choice. I went to drive the van a bit closer, managed to go up a one way street the wrong way and in taking action to get out of that situation ended up in a one way street that happened to be the terminus for the cities mini buses. Here we were in the middle of three rows of vans and in the meantime more had come in behind us. The row would move forward as a minibus would fill up and take off; we just had to be patient. The drivers were trying to work out which row would move the sooner so we could get away. It was a laugh shared by the drivers as well as ourselves. We gave up on that hotel after that and moved along the Corniche and happened upon this nice place. Hotel Ramsis, newly decorated with its own bathroom though it would have to be the smallest ensuite I have seen. Measures about 1200x750mm with the shower over the toilet bowl and a hand basin in the corner. Still, the water is piping hot. Breakfast is included, a view of the Mediterranean from our balcony and all this for AU$16.
The audio books are going well – into our third now with 24 or so to listen to. This time, instead of putting them all onto disc, I ripped them on to my laptop then sync the story we are listening to onto my ipod. I have a Belkin wireless device for my ipod that plays the story through our van radio. Works well apart from sometimes getting interference from some nearby radio station which means we have to change frequencies.
We headed down to this area yesterday before heading north to Alexandria. South of Saqqara we also visited the Bent Pyramid and the Red Pyramid. The former has sides that have a distinct bend a third of the way up, I guess the pharaoh wanted to be a little different.
We intended heading north to Alexandria then do a sweep around to Port Said, Suez then head down the Gulf of Suez but after talking to one of the tour bus drivers we think we might take the Desert Road to the west of the Nile Valley. He reckoned it was a good road, not much traffic and faster. It means heading back to Cairo though.
In the meantime we will spend the day looking around this Mediterranean city. We got into a bit of a spot yesterday after we had arrived. There are no camp sites here so decided to suss out the hotels. We had forgotten it is the Coptic & Orthodox Easter this weekend and most hotels were full. We finally found one, a bit of a dive but had no choice. I went to drive the van a bit closer, managed to go up a one way street the wrong way and in taking action to get out of that situation ended up in a one way street that happened to be the terminus for the cities mini buses. Here we were in the middle of three rows of vans and in the meantime more had come in behind us. The row would move forward as a minibus would fill up and take off; we just had to be patient. The drivers were trying to work out which row would move the sooner so we could get away. It was a laugh shared by the drivers as well as ourselves. We gave up on that hotel after that and moved along the Corniche and happened upon this nice place. Hotel Ramsis, newly decorated with its own bathroom though it would have to be the smallest ensuite I have seen. Measures about 1200x750mm with the shower over the toilet bowl and a hand basin in the corner. Still, the water is piping hot. Breakfast is included, a view of the Mediterranean from our balcony and all this for AU$16.
The audio books are going well – into our third now with 24 or so to listen to. This time, instead of putting them all onto disc, I ripped them on to my laptop then sync the story we are listening to onto my ipod. I have a Belkin wireless device for my ipod that plays the story through our van radio. Works well apart from sometimes getting interference from some nearby radio station which means we have to change frequencies.
24th April. Cairo
24th April. Cairo.
It was to be a day of applying for our Sudanese visas in the morning then take in the Cairo Museum in the afternoon. As often happens, the NZ Consulate from whom we had to get a letter of introduction, wasn’t where it was meant to be. But there we met one of the guides of Intrepid travel, the Australian overland crowd that deal in Africa and the Middle East. He said there wasn’t a NZ representative here now and thought we had to deal through the Australian Embassy. We learnt from them that a NZ Embassy had opened in the last 6 months close by. A new building, nice and clean. The ambassador came out and introduced himself while we were waiting.
Then off to the Sudan Embassy our helper still with us. He proved invaluable there as the Sudanese visa can take from 2 days up to a month. We had it in 90 minutes. A bit of Baksheesh changed hands but I think worth it.
We also needed new tyres for the van for the hard roads in Africa. We spent the afternoon getting quotes from a half a dozen places, purchasing them then having them fitted. This involved three different shops at different sides of the city. I wouldn’t say I’m getting better at driving in this mad city but I did find our way back to the hotel afterwards without hitting anybody and only one fierce hand shaking at me.
25th Anzac Day. Cairo.
We wondered why there were no replies to a couple of phone calls I had to make to AU during business hours Australian time. Then it dawned on us late in the afternoon what day it was.
Decided on doing the tourist thing today then we can head out of this metropolis. A cool day, perfect for a morning at the pyramids. Such a wonderful sight, so big and knowing they have been there for thousands of years. We also took time out to visit the Solar Boat Museum that houses the boat built for the Pharaoh to pass over into the underworld. The museum is built over the pit where it was found and the boat is suspended above it visible to the public on 4 different levels. It would be about 35 metres long and so sleek. Even the ropes binding it all together were still there as was some of the matting. Amazing when you consider it’s over 4,600 years old.
The afternoon was time for the Cairo Museum. The LP says it’s a shambles with many of the relics having no explanatory notes and display cabinets appearing not to have been cleaned for months. Perhaps they are right but it still is a must with the exhibits so interesting.
Of course Tutankhamen is the highlight with his gold mask, sarcophagi and jewellery as well as all the other objects Carter found in the tomb, but also so many of the other displays show a personal side to the lives of the pharaohs and the higher officers. We both loved a painted statue of the dwarf Seneb with his wife and children. The children were carved below his stunted folded legs where his legs would have been, his wife had an arm around him and the loving smile on his wife’s face shows her feelings to him. It was great.
We leave tomorrow to visit some more pyramids south of here then head north to Alexandria before doing a loop back to Suez and on down the western side of the Gulf of Suez.
It was to be a day of applying for our Sudanese visas in the morning then take in the Cairo Museum in the afternoon. As often happens, the NZ Consulate from whom we had to get a letter of introduction, wasn’t where it was meant to be. But there we met one of the guides of Intrepid travel, the Australian overland crowd that deal in Africa and the Middle East. He said there wasn’t a NZ representative here now and thought we had to deal through the Australian Embassy. We learnt from them that a NZ Embassy had opened in the last 6 months close by. A new building, nice and clean. The ambassador came out and introduced himself while we were waiting.
Then off to the Sudan Embassy our helper still with us. He proved invaluable there as the Sudanese visa can take from 2 days up to a month. We had it in 90 minutes. A bit of Baksheesh changed hands but I think worth it.
We also needed new tyres for the van for the hard roads in Africa. We spent the afternoon getting quotes from a half a dozen places, purchasing them then having them fitted. This involved three different shops at different sides of the city. I wouldn’t say I’m getting better at driving in this mad city but I did find our way back to the hotel afterwards without hitting anybody and only one fierce hand shaking at me.
25th Anzac Day. Cairo.
We wondered why there were no replies to a couple of phone calls I had to make to AU during business hours Australian time. Then it dawned on us late in the afternoon what day it was.
Decided on doing the tourist thing today then we can head out of this metropolis. A cool day, perfect for a morning at the pyramids. Such a wonderful sight, so big and knowing they have been there for thousands of years. We also took time out to visit the Solar Boat Museum that houses the boat built for the Pharaoh to pass over into the underworld. The museum is built over the pit where it was found and the boat is suspended above it visible to the public on 4 different levels. It would be about 35 metres long and so sleek. Even the ropes binding it all together were still there as was some of the matting. Amazing when you consider it’s over 4,600 years old.
The afternoon was time for the Cairo Museum. The LP says it’s a shambles with many of the relics having no explanatory notes and display cabinets appearing not to have been cleaned for months. Perhaps they are right but it still is a must with the exhibits so interesting.
Of course Tutankhamen is the highlight with his gold mask, sarcophagi and jewellery as well as all the other objects Carter found in the tomb, but also so many of the other displays show a personal side to the lives of the pharaohs and the higher officers. We both loved a painted statue of the dwarf Seneb with his wife and children. The children were carved below his stunted folded legs where his legs would have been, his wife had an arm around him and the loving smile on his wife’s face shows her feelings to him. It was great.
We leave tomorrow to visit some more pyramids south of here then head north to Alexandria before doing a loop back to Suez and on down the western side of the Gulf of Suez.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
22nd April. St Catherine's Monastery, Sinai
Hi, 2 blogs & 4 photos today.
After 22 hours of being held up in the customs compound we finally drove out after 12 noon this afternoon. The fax didn’t come through but after showing the bloke the original letter from the AAA he thought that would do. That and a fair bit of baksheesh saw us through. It was frustrating and expensive. Another $300 worth of fees. But then on filling up with diesel the first station I came to and paying out AU$8 for 55 litres it starts to even up.
Sinai is barren, very barren and lacking most of the spectacular scenery we saw in Jordan. The mountainous country surprised me though, I for some reason thought it was pretty flat. We are staying at the Fox Camping site at the town of St Catherine. It’s bliss after the hassles of the last 24 hours and is another of those places where you meet a weird array of people: two Germans, who walked two donkeys from Germany, took them 8 years; Kelvin, an Englishman whose gone native, he’s been in the Sinai 6 years; a young American studying Arabic in Cairo. We have two camels being quite affectionate behind the van. The Germans were heading to Jerusalem but the Israeli authorities wouldn’t let them in.
The monastery is Greek Orthodox, first built in the 3rd century AD and the oldest monastery continuously inhabited by monks. The setting is spectacular with Mt Sinai alongside and Mt Catherine with its tiny chapel on its summit, behind. We walked up to it this afternoon but will return when it is open tomorrow.
23rd
We learnt a lesson today: don’t think by going early to an attraction you will avoid the rush. The monastery is only open 9-12 each day. We thought we would be able to see it and be on the Cairo road by 10.00. Visitors have to enter the monastery through a 800mm door. Outside that door was a crowd of at least 300. Not organized into a long row but just a mob. The door opened at 9.20 by which time there were 400 and all surged forward in a horrible mass, quite unregulated. To stumble would have been tempting fate. We made it, saw the supposed Burning Bush where overcome pilgrims were touching, praying and kissing the wall, the Church of the Transfiguration was beautiful and quite moving. We then had to leave by the same door but by this time the crowd had been organized into a line and we could squeeze past each other. Leaving the site we counted 37 buses filled with tourists coming to the monastery.
I think this is going to happen in most countries we will be travelling through with maybe the exception of Sudan and Ethiopia – there will be package tourists most places we go. Nothing wrong with that, everybody has the right to travel however they wish, but the image of going places a little out of the way is getting to be non existent.
And on to Cairo. Good road not much traffic. We travelled along the Gulf of Suez for a fair way then went in a tunnel under the Suez Canal. Strange to see a ship sailing by in what looks like sand dunes.
Traffic was building up as we approached Cairo. The erratic fast driving of the locals was becoming obvious. It came to a head when we took the Ring Road around the city. Phew! They are quite mad and travel very fast. It took us a further 2 hours until we found the hotel we had been told allowed camping, they don’t, the last hour following a taxi as we would never have found it on our own. I would put the drivers here on a par with driving in the worst of the Indian cities: they don’t have the animal life on the roads which you find in India but they do travel much faster and every bit as mad.
We have decided to stay in the hotel for 2 nights while organizing the visa then head out of town for the weekend.
After 22 hours of being held up in the customs compound we finally drove out after 12 noon this afternoon. The fax didn’t come through but after showing the bloke the original letter from the AAA he thought that would do. That and a fair bit of baksheesh saw us through. It was frustrating and expensive. Another $300 worth of fees. But then on filling up with diesel the first station I came to and paying out AU$8 for 55 litres it starts to even up.
Sinai is barren, very barren and lacking most of the spectacular scenery we saw in Jordan. The mountainous country surprised me though, I for some reason thought it was pretty flat. We are staying at the Fox Camping site at the town of St Catherine. It’s bliss after the hassles of the last 24 hours and is another of those places where you meet a weird array of people: two Germans, who walked two donkeys from Germany, took them 8 years; Kelvin, an Englishman whose gone native, he’s been in the Sinai 6 years; a young American studying Arabic in Cairo. We have two camels being quite affectionate behind the van. The Germans were heading to Jerusalem but the Israeli authorities wouldn’t let them in.
The monastery is Greek Orthodox, first built in the 3rd century AD and the oldest monastery continuously inhabited by monks. The setting is spectacular with Mt Sinai alongside and Mt Catherine with its tiny chapel on its summit, behind. We walked up to it this afternoon but will return when it is open tomorrow.
23rd
We learnt a lesson today: don’t think by going early to an attraction you will avoid the rush. The monastery is only open 9-12 each day. We thought we would be able to see it and be on the Cairo road by 10.00. Visitors have to enter the monastery through a 800mm door. Outside that door was a crowd of at least 300. Not organized into a long row but just a mob. The door opened at 9.20 by which time there were 400 and all surged forward in a horrible mass, quite unregulated. To stumble would have been tempting fate. We made it, saw the supposed Burning Bush where overcome pilgrims were touching, praying and kissing the wall, the Church of the Transfiguration was beautiful and quite moving. We then had to leave by the same door but by this time the crowd had been organized into a line and we could squeeze past each other. Leaving the site we counted 37 buses filled with tourists coming to the monastery.
I think this is going to happen in most countries we will be travelling through with maybe the exception of Sudan and Ethiopia – there will be package tourists most places we go. Nothing wrong with that, everybody has the right to travel however they wish, but the image of going places a little out of the way is getting to be non existent.
And on to Cairo. Good road not much traffic. We travelled along the Gulf of Suez for a fair way then went in a tunnel under the Suez Canal. Strange to see a ship sailing by in what looks like sand dunes.
Traffic was building up as we approached Cairo. The erratic fast driving of the locals was becoming obvious. It came to a head when we took the Ring Road around the city. Phew! They are quite mad and travel very fast. It took us a further 2 hours until we found the hotel we had been told allowed camping, they don’t, the last hour following a taxi as we would never have found it on our own. I would put the drivers here on a par with driving in the worst of the Indian cities: they don’t have the animal life on the roads which you find in India but they do travel much faster and every bit as mad.
We have decided to stay in the hotel for 2 nights while organizing the visa then head out of town for the weekend.
22nd April. Nuweiba, Egypt
Not a good start for Egypt. Had to stay the night in the customs compound at this port because they needed a guarantee the extension on our vehicle carnet is valid. That meant waking up at 3am to ring the AAA in Australia and ask them to fax authentication to the customs office here. I have dealt with the lady concerned in the past, she knew the situation as it often happens on the Indian border, and, I hope, faxed the form. She was going to email it as well. We will see when the office finally opens.
Started off ok; dropped Emma off at the border with Israel outside Aqaba then made our way to the ferry terminal. Found there that the van was to do on the slow boat to Nuweiba while we caught the fast passenger. It would mean a wait for the slow one to arrive. The trip took 90 minutes, and then there was a 45 minute wait standing ready to disembark. Getting our Egyptian visas was fairly quick then there was a 4 hour wait for the other boat along with the other vehicle owners and truckies. When the boat did come in and the gang plank come down there was a further hour’s wait, again I’m not sure why.
Then the fun began. The other vehicles had to empty all their belongings out, we at least were spared that. Then it was off to myriad offices to get pieces of paper signed, inspections of serial numbers, further offices and then at the end of it all at about 9.30pm (this had started at 6) we were told we had to get this authorisation. At least it wasn’t too hot and not that noisy after all the other vehicles had left. We did have the help of a senior traffic customs officer which made an impossible task easier.
I don’t think I saw one computer in the port with much of the paperwork being taken down in long hand by a group of workers. When Emma visited some years ago they were still using typewriters, I think things have declined.
Later.
Well no fax. Peppina from AAA left a message to say she had difficulty sending it to the number I supplied. We may have to go up to print it off her email. Stay tuned
Started off ok; dropped Emma off at the border with Israel outside Aqaba then made our way to the ferry terminal. Found there that the van was to do on the slow boat to Nuweiba while we caught the fast passenger. It would mean a wait for the slow one to arrive. The trip took 90 minutes, and then there was a 45 minute wait standing ready to disembark. Getting our Egyptian visas was fairly quick then there was a 4 hour wait for the other boat along with the other vehicle owners and truckies. When the boat did come in and the gang plank come down there was a further hour’s wait, again I’m not sure why.
Then the fun began. The other vehicles had to empty all their belongings out, we at least were spared that. Then it was off to myriad offices to get pieces of paper signed, inspections of serial numbers, further offices and then at the end of it all at about 9.30pm (this had started at 6) we were told we had to get this authorisation. At least it wasn’t too hot and not that noisy after all the other vehicles had left. We did have the help of a senior traffic customs officer which made an impossible task easier.
I don’t think I saw one computer in the port with much of the paperwork being taken down in long hand by a group of workers. When Emma visited some years ago they were still using typewriters, I think things have declined.
Later.
Well no fax. Peppina from AAA left a message to say she had difficulty sending it to the number I supplied. We may have to go up to print it off her email. Stay tuned
Sunday, April 20, 2008
20th April, Aqaba Jordan
It wasn’t a 1:1 gradient down Wadi Dana, but the last couple of kilometres would have been a 1:2 gradient at least. The good thing was we started early and had a cool breeze blowing. The wadi was shrouded in mist at the beginning which quickly dissipated as the sun rose. The path was good and once we reached the bottom of the wadi, quite undulating. We walked about 5kms, had a rest then headed back. That last 2 kilometres were a killer; I am still suffering two days later.
One of the pleasures of independent travel is the other people you meet in these out of the way places: we once more met up with Janine from Brisbane who was staying at the Dana Hotel, Peter & Jenni a couple from Manchester and Connie and her mother from Holland. The latter two were on a bicycle tour of Jordan but were finding the going tough. Nice to hear stories of other people’s travels.
We travelled to Aqaba that afternoon, we had heard the boat to Nuweiba in Sinai was being repaired and might not be sailing which would have disrupted our plans. Luckily that wasn’t the case. We also needed to try and contact the shipping agent in Aswan for the Lake Nasser ferry between Egypt and Sinai as we were coming to the conclusion our time would be too short to get down to Sinai by the 28th April and would prefer the following sailing. As the barge only takes 3 vehicles we didn’t want to miss out. When ringing him I kept getting a bloke who spoke only Arabic.
Email sent we headed back to Wadi Rum about 60kms out of Aqaba. Many would have heard of the wadi from the ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ movie and remember the spectacular scenery. The real thing is even better. A large area, with sandstone mountains appearing out of a sea of sand like islands in the ocean. Each corner you turn there is another amazing panorama. Most mountains are reddish in colour, vertical and rise hundreds of feet. Guided tours are the only way the public can get around the park either by 4x4, camel or horse. We took the 8 hour 4x4 one that included most of the highlights. These include Lawrence’s Spring, rock carvings, narrow siqs, Lawrence’s house and many other places but it’s that panorama that is the highlight. Quite amazing. Our day was enhanced by being accompanied by Mafuleh, the 8 r old brother of our driver. Small for his age he was full of energy: guiding us to where the best inscriptions were, urging Emma on up this 100 metre sand hill and leading the way up the climbs to the natural bridges. He will be the No 1 guide in a few years time.
While there I managed to get hold of Mr Salah in Aswan, ok for the later date which means we could spend another day with Emma. I needed it to recuperate from that Dana climb.
It wasn’t a 1:1 gradient down Wadi Dana, but the last couple of kilometres would have been a 1:2 gradient at least. The good thing was we started early and had a cool breeze blowing. The wadi was shrouded in mist at the beginning which quickly dissipated as the sun rose. The path was good and once we reached the bottom of the wadi, quite undulating. We walked about 5kms, had a rest then headed back. That last 2 kilometres were a killer; I am still suffering two days later.
One of the pleasures of independent travel is the other people you meet in these out of the way places: we once more met up with Janine from Brisbane who was staying at the Dana Hotel, Peter & Jenni a couple from Manchester and Connie and her mother from Holland. The latter two were on a bicycle tour of Jordan but were finding the going tough. Nice to hear stories of other people’s travels.
We travelled to Aqaba that afternoon, we had heard the boat to Nuweiba in Sinai was being repaired and might not be sailing which would have disrupted our plans. Luckily that wasn’t the case. We also needed to try and contact the shipping agent in Aswan for the Lake Nasser ferry between Egypt and Sinai as we were coming to the conclusion our time would be too short to get down to Sinai by the 28th April and would prefer the following sailing. As the barge only takes 3 vehicles we didn’t want to miss out. When ringing him I kept getting a bloke who spoke only Arabic.
Email sent we headed back to Wadi Rum about 60kms out of Aqaba. Many would have heard of the wadi from the ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ movie and remember the spectacular scenery. The real thing is even better. A large area, with sandstone mountains appearing out of a sea of sand like islands in the ocean. Each corner you turn there is another amazing panorama. Most mountains are reddish in colour, vertical and rise hundreds of feet. Guided tours are the only way the public can get around the park either by 4x4, camel or horse. We took the 8 hour 4x4 one that included most of the highlights. These include Lawrence’s Spring, rock carvings, narrow siqs, Lawrence’s house and many other places but it’s that panorama that is the highlight. Quite amazing. Our day was enhanced by being accompanied by Mafuleh, the 8 r old brother of our driver. Small for his age he was full of energy: guiding us to where the best inscriptions were, urging Emma on up this 100 metre sand hill and leading the way up the climbs to the natural bridges. He will be the No 1 guide in a few years time.
While there I managed to get hold of Mr Salah in Aswan, ok for the later date which means we could spend another day with Emma. I needed it to recuperate from that Dana climb.
16th April.
16th April. Mt Nebo
Don’t believe a word the Israeli’s say. We have been to the correct place where John the Baptist baptised Jesus. Or so the Jordanians reckon. They might have a point actually. In the bible there is talk about Bethany beyond the Jordan, well, since the peace agreement, they have been able to carry out excavations right on the border that has dug up ancient remains of buildings almost exactly in the spot the baptism was meant to have occurred. It’s about 300 metres east of the present path of the river but then rivers change course. Early travellers speak about the building with the four pillars as where it occurred, two of these pillars have been excavated so far. Being right on the present day border meant having to come to this area as part of a group with guide. I made the faux pas of asking the guide if that was Israel over there, ‘No, that is the Occupied Territory’ he said. ‘The correct border is 40 kilometres from the Mediterranean.’ I had forgotten that even with the peace agreement the border question still simmers.
It was an interesting tour, worthwhile coming back earlier on the 2nd day as 2.30pm in a heat wave is not the time to spend 90 minutes wandering around 400 metres below sea level.
We camped at Mt Nebo last night, a short distance from the Church of Moses. Parked behind this unfinished tourist complex, we looked over these ancient hills, some tiered others untouched. We ate tea outside for the first time this trip to the sound of sheep bells as the Bedouin shepherds brought their flocks back to the shelters for the night.
Later
Waiting at the border for Emma to cross over was a bit of an experience. I must admit it was more relaxed than 13 years ago when tension was still high and the only people to cross the border were the odd foreigner. At least the Palestinians have the right to cross the border now without to much hassle and we watched quite a few of their buses pulling in. Foreigners weren’t allowed on those buses but had to wait for the hourly ones to take them across. We parked outside the ‘Arrival’ doors deciding to make a cup of tea much to the amusement of the security guards standing around keeping an eye on things.
The idea was to head south to Aqaba after picking up Emma, it’s only 290ms south. But driving alongside the Dead Sea we changed our minds and headed back to Dana to take in an early morning walk. It’s a long way down the valley and I’m not sure I will last the 15km round trip especially when the last kilometre is a 1:1 gradient. It will be interesting.
Don’t believe a word the Israeli’s say. We have been to the correct place where John the Baptist baptised Jesus. Or so the Jordanians reckon. They might have a point actually. In the bible there is talk about Bethany beyond the Jordan, well, since the peace agreement, they have been able to carry out excavations right on the border that has dug up ancient remains of buildings almost exactly in the spot the baptism was meant to have occurred. It’s about 300 metres east of the present path of the river but then rivers change course. Early travellers speak about the building with the four pillars as where it occurred, two of these pillars have been excavated so far. Being right on the present day border meant having to come to this area as part of a group with guide. I made the faux pas of asking the guide if that was Israel over there, ‘No, that is the Occupied Territory’ he said. ‘The correct border is 40 kilometres from the Mediterranean.’ I had forgotten that even with the peace agreement the border question still simmers.
It was an interesting tour, worthwhile coming back earlier on the 2nd day as 2.30pm in a heat wave is not the time to spend 90 minutes wandering around 400 metres below sea level.
We camped at Mt Nebo last night, a short distance from the Church of Moses. Parked behind this unfinished tourist complex, we looked over these ancient hills, some tiered others untouched. We ate tea outside for the first time this trip to the sound of sheep bells as the Bedouin shepherds brought their flocks back to the shelters for the night.
Later
Waiting at the border for Emma to cross over was a bit of an experience. I must admit it was more relaxed than 13 years ago when tension was still high and the only people to cross the border were the odd foreigner. At least the Palestinians have the right to cross the border now without to much hassle and we watched quite a few of their buses pulling in. Foreigners weren’t allowed on those buses but had to wait for the hourly ones to take them across. We parked outside the ‘Arrival’ doors deciding to make a cup of tea much to the amusement of the security guards standing around keeping an eye on things.
The idea was to head south to Aqaba after picking up Emma, it’s only 290ms south. But driving alongside the Dead Sea we changed our minds and headed back to Dana to take in an early morning walk. It’s a long way down the valley and I’m not sure I will last the 15km round trip especially when the last kilometre is a 1:1 gradient. It will be interesting.
15th
16th April. Mt Nebo
Don’t believe a word the Israeli’s say. We have been to the correct place where John the Baptist baptised Jesus. Or so the Jordanians reckon. They might have a point actually. In the bible there is talk about Bethany beyond the Jordan, well, since the peace agreement, they have been able to carry out excavations right on the border that has dug up ancient remains of buildings almost exactly in the spot the baptism was meant to have occurred. It’s about 300 metres east of the present path of the river but then rivers change course. Early travellers speak about the building with the four pillars as where it occurred, two of these pillars have been excavated so far. Being right on the present day border meant having to come to this area as part of a group with guide. I made the faux pas of asking the guide if that was Israel over there, ‘No, that is the Occupied Territory’ he said. ‘The correct border is 40 kilometres from the Mediterranean.’ I had forgotten that even with the peace agreement the border question still simmers.
It was an interesting tour, worthwhile coming back earlier on the 2nd day as 2.30pm in a heat wave is not the time to spend 90 minutes wandering around 400 metres below sea level.
We camped at Mt Nebo last night, a short distance from the Church of Moses. Parked behind this unfinished tourist complex, we looked over these ancient hills, some tiered others untouched. We ate tea outside for the first time this trip to the sound of sheep bells as the Bedouin shepherds brought their flocks back to the shelters for the night.
Later
Waiting at the border for Emma to cross over was a bit of an experience. I must admit it was more relaxed than 13 years ago when tension was still high and the only people to cross the border were the odd foreigner. At least the Palestinians have the right to cross the border now without to much hassle and we watched quite a few of their buses pulling in. Foreigners weren’t allowed on those buses but had to wait for the hourly ones to take them across. We parked outside the ‘Arrival’ doors deciding to make a cup of tea much to the amusement of the security guards standing around keeping an eye on things.
The idea was to head south to Aqaba after picking up Emma, it’s only 290ms south. But driving alongside the Dead Sea we changed our minds and headed back to Dana to take in an early morning walk. It’s a long way down the valley and I’m not sure I will last the 15km round trip especially when the last kilometre is a 1:1 gradient. It will be interesting.
Don’t believe a word the Israeli’s say. We have been to the correct place where John the Baptist baptised Jesus. Or so the Jordanians reckon. They might have a point actually. In the bible there is talk about Bethany beyond the Jordan, well, since the peace agreement, they have been able to carry out excavations right on the border that has dug up ancient remains of buildings almost exactly in the spot the baptism was meant to have occurred. It’s about 300 metres east of the present path of the river but then rivers change course. Early travellers speak about the building with the four pillars as where it occurred, two of these pillars have been excavated so far. Being right on the present day border meant having to come to this area as part of a group with guide. I made the faux pas of asking the guide if that was Israel over there, ‘No, that is the Occupied Territory’ he said. ‘The correct border is 40 kilometres from the Mediterranean.’ I had forgotten that even with the peace agreement the border question still simmers.
It was an interesting tour, worthwhile coming back earlier on the 2nd day as 2.30pm in a heat wave is not the time to spend 90 minutes wandering around 400 metres below sea level.
We camped at Mt Nebo last night, a short distance from the Church of Moses. Parked behind this unfinished tourist complex, we looked over these ancient hills, some tiered others untouched. We ate tea outside for the first time this trip to the sound of sheep bells as the Bedouin shepherds brought their flocks back to the shelters for the night.
Later
Waiting at the border for Emma to cross over was a bit of an experience. I must admit it was more relaxed than 13 years ago when tension was still high and the only people to cross the border were the odd foreigner. At least the Palestinians have the right to cross the border now without to much hassle and we watched quite a few of their buses pulling in. Foreigners weren’t allowed on those buses but had to wait for the hourly ones to take them across. We parked outside the ‘Arrival’ doors deciding to make a cup of tea much to the amusement of the security guards standing around keeping an eye on things.
The idea was to head south to Aqaba after picking up Emma, it’s only 290ms south. But driving alongside the Dead Sea we changed our minds and headed back to Dana to take in an early morning walk. It’s a long way down the valley and I’m not sure I will last the 15km round trip especially when the last kilometre is a 1:1 gradient. It will be interesting.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
11th April Madaba, Jordan
Along the
Looking forward to catching up with Emma on Wednesday. There are now 3 border crossings between
13th April
Madaba has an amazing number of mosaics dating back to the 6th century. Every ancient
The VW crowd has advised us to get new brake linings on the vehicle. I would normally not bother as it has only done 61,000kms but we are carrying quite a load and might need the extra efficiency if some dirty big bull elephant steps out in front of us.
Saturday, April 12, 2008
10-11 April. Madaba, Jordan
Border crossings are starting to become a major expense on this trip- $300 all up going into Syria with visas, diesel tax, carnets etc taken into consideration. And a further $200 getting in to Jordan yesterday. Not so bad if you’re spending a couple of weeks in each but we are doing a lot less than that.
The Jordanian side of the border were well organised, no need for ‘helpers’ and such.
We made it to Jerash in the dark last night. A town famed for its well preserved Roman ruins. Then on to Amman and Mabada, 40kms further south this morning. Madaba is a smaller town and a good central point to visit the different attractions around here. The St George Greek Orthodox Church has kindly allowed us to camp in their grounds for the night. It’s the map mosaic, originally 16mX6m, the draws the visitors to the church. Not much left now, but enough to make it a major attraction. I don’t think you have to be a believer to stay here but they did mention that at the tourist bureau.
I am enjoying driving in this country. Jordanians seem to be better drivers than I have experienced of late: more considerate and travel at a slower speed.
Our van is due for a service. We spent a frustrating 4 hours driving around Amman looking for the VW crowd. I was waiting until we got to Cairo but we are going to be busy getting our Sudan visa there. Having it done here, when we have a couple of spare days up our sleeve, will ease the pressure in Egypt. I wanted to wait until we reached this area as with servicing due every 15,000kms it would’ve meant it was going to be well overdue before we reached the next country that sells VWs which is Sth Africa.
I am able to do my own blog postings once more. The censorship was unexpected and a bit frustrating. At least I know what I can do to get around the problem though Adam did have trouble getting the images uploaded.
11th April.
Jordan is quite an amazing country. The barren scenery is quite breathtaking. It was a day of sightseeing. Firstly Mt Nebo where Moses saw the Promised Land then died at the ripe old age of 120, then on to the Dead Sea as you all will know is 400 metres below sea level. We travelled along it for 60 odd kilometres then climbed inland to Karak where another of the Crusader castles stands. Was funny to read that although the Muslims and the Christians were at war in the time of the Crusades, the two sides were still trading with each other. Bit like England selling coal to Germany during the war and at the same time bombing the shit out of them.
From Karak we travelled south along the Kings Highway to the Dana Wildlife Refuge where we are camped. The panorama below us is spectacular with barren rugged cliffs smoothly falling thousands of feet to the Dead Sea Valley.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
8th April Palmyra In the Syrian Desert
A day of ruins today. Nice to have a full day off the driving. Incidentally, access is denied to any web site with the word ‘blog’ in it. Means I can’t post any happenings. Then I thought of sending attachments with my posts and images to someone and getting them to put it on for me. Adam was the chosen one and I hope this arrangement keeps the blog up to date as I have no way of checking myself. Perhaps Jordan will be different.
Palmyra is over 200kms from any water course but the spring flowing from the base of nearby hills has created an oasis that has sustained the city for centuries. It has been an important staging point in most of the routes across the Cham Desert and the remaining Greek and Roman ruins have made it the most important tourist destination in Syria. Many of the columns in the main thoroughfare are standing while the main temple, that of Bel, still retains the aura of its heyday. Most of the city has no entrance fee. To be able wander at ones own pace is just so relaxing. The buildings are constructed in a beautiful yellowy stone that blends so well with the surrounding desert.
We are camped in the grounds of this upmarket hotel surrounded by the ancient city. AU$12 a night with hot showers thrown in. A Syrian beer and G&T in the garden tonight will go down well as the sun sets behind the columns.
Palmyra is over 200kms from any water course but the spring flowing from the base of nearby hills has created an oasis that has sustained the city for centuries. It has been an important staging point in most of the routes across the Cham Desert and the remaining Greek and Roman ruins have made it the most important tourist destination in Syria. Many of the columns in the main thoroughfare are standing while the main temple, that of Bel, still retains the aura of its heyday. Most of the city has no entrance fee. To be able wander at ones own pace is just so relaxing. The buildings are constructed in a beautiful yellowy stone that blends so well with the surrounding desert.
We are camped in the grounds of this upmarket hotel surrounded by the ancient city. AU$12 a night with hot showers thrown in. A Syrian beer and G&T in the garden tonight will go down well as the sun sets behind the columns.
7th April Palmyra
Cracs de Chevalier has always been an enigma to us. Whenever we see it on Global Village or some programme on the crusades or perhaps Syria we think that this was the place we didn’t quite get to 30 odd years ago. We were almost there on a wet cold February night in 1975 when we struck a traffic jam caused by an accident or something. We were only a few kilometres away. Fed up with waiting, after a couple of hours and with tired irritable children in the back we turned back. Well we made it today; it was worth the return trip.
Enlarged by the crusaders in the 13th century from an old fort it is almost completely intact. Never stormed by the Muslims, the dwindling numbers of crusaders surrendered the fort after a guarantee of safe passage. They had the provisions to outlast a 5 year siege but when the chances of assistance coming from Europe are virtually non existent why keep up the defence? You’ve got to think back to those times when they would’ve had to send a messenger back to Europe asking for help, and then they would have had to organize an army and march thousands of miles overland. What if the messenger had been knocked off on the way or met some pretty little barmaid in some Bulgarian schnapps house and said ‘Buggar the crusades’? I don’t blame them giving up
It is a magnificent structure with two layers of high walls rising over 30 metres in height. The halls and dormitories are massive to house the 2000 inhabitants. When the surrender occurred there were only 200 remaining.
We spent the afternoon there before heading east across the desert to Palmyra, some 220kms further on.
The diesel situation gets more amusing by the day: as I mentioned earlier, we paid this $100 diesel when we crossed the border then had all those troubles the first day here. I’ve learnt that when your gauge heads towards the half full you start looking for a station that actually sells the fuel. We hadn’t seen one at all today (you look out for the queue of trucks), until I caught a glance of what I thought was one as we sped along the highway though there was only the one truck there. We reversed back and I went to have a chat to the 5 blokes in the office. There were some murmurs when I asked for ‘Dizel’ then they pointed to one bloke who sighed then nodded his head. We went out to the pump, he put in 20 litres but that was it. Appears they were rationing it and giving it to needy looking customers. Maybe it was my greying balding hair that made them take pity on us. Later we saw another queue, went to join the end but with some friendly banter between the staff and drivers waiting, we were sent to the front of the line. We are finding the Syrian people so relaxed and welcoming. Many know only one word and that’s ‘Welcome’.
Enlarged by the crusaders in the 13th century from an old fort it is almost completely intact. Never stormed by the Muslims, the dwindling numbers of crusaders surrendered the fort after a guarantee of safe passage. They had the provisions to outlast a 5 year siege but when the chances of assistance coming from Europe are virtually non existent why keep up the defence? You’ve got to think back to those times when they would’ve had to send a messenger back to Europe asking for help, and then they would have had to organize an army and march thousands of miles overland. What if the messenger had been knocked off on the way or met some pretty little barmaid in some Bulgarian schnapps house and said ‘Buggar the crusades’? I don’t blame them giving up
It is a magnificent structure with two layers of high walls rising over 30 metres in height. The halls and dormitories are massive to house the 2000 inhabitants. When the surrender occurred there were only 200 remaining.
We spent the afternoon there before heading east across the desert to Palmyra, some 220kms further on.
The diesel situation gets more amusing by the day: as I mentioned earlier, we paid this $100 diesel when we crossed the border then had all those troubles the first day here. I’ve learnt that when your gauge heads towards the half full you start looking for a station that actually sells the fuel. We hadn’t seen one at all today (you look out for the queue of trucks), until I caught a glance of what I thought was one as we sped along the highway though there was only the one truck there. We reversed back and I went to have a chat to the 5 blokes in the office. There were some murmurs when I asked for ‘Dizel’ then they pointed to one bloke who sighed then nodded his head. We went out to the pump, he put in 20 litres but that was it. Appears they were rationing it and giving it to needy looking customers. Maybe it was my greying balding hair that made them take pity on us. Later we saw another queue, went to join the end but with some friendly banter between the staff and drivers waiting, we were sent to the front of the line. We are finding the Syrian people so relaxed and welcoming. Many know only one word and that’s ‘Welcome’.
Monday, April 7, 2008
6th April. Hama, Syria
Two posts today as well as a few images. Had trouble loading them on to my memory stick but all is well again.
Hama is one of the ‘must sees’ of Syria. Mainly for the Norias or water wheels that elevate the water from the Orontes River used to supply the town and irrigate the land. Massive things standing at least 6 metres tall. Sadly the Orontes is now a sewer with methane gases belching up to the surface through the putrid slime. Perhaps outside the town things may be better, we shall see tomorrow. I believe they are still working further upstream
A great day’s travel; after our interrupted night on the beach we headed inland visiting this amazing crusader fortress built on top of these wooded slopes that at times drop sheer to the creeks below. Qala’at Saladin would seem to be quite impregnable but was eventually taken by the Arab invaders. The setting is magnificent but the road to it brought memories of some of the hairpin bends on the Lowari Pass in Pakistan, at least this time the road was sealed.
We then continued toward Hama stopping off at Apamea. Built by one of Alexander’s generals in the 2nd Century BC, the columns and pillars of the main thoroughfare are still quite imposing. This street would be 15 metres wide and would stretch at least a kilometre. Visitors are often joined by a flock of sheep passing through as the site isn’t fenced. Earthquakes over the centuries have demolished most of the city though the colonnades have been re erected
It’s good getting to the warmer areas. A smaller van is not so good in colder climates. Getting outside, setting up table & chairs for a meal or the hammocks to relax in is a big part of the enjoyment of motor homing and that is out of the question up till now. I see they are having more snow in the UK, don’t envy them.
Hama is one of the ‘must sees’ of Syria. Mainly for the Norias or water wheels that elevate the water from the Orontes River used to supply the town and irrigate the land. Massive things standing at least 6 metres tall. Sadly the Orontes is now a sewer with methane gases belching up to the surface through the putrid slime. Perhaps outside the town things may be better, we shall see tomorrow. I believe they are still working further upstream
A great day’s travel; after our interrupted night on the beach we headed inland visiting this amazing crusader fortress built on top of these wooded slopes that at times drop sheer to the creeks below. Qala’at Saladin would seem to be quite impregnable but was eventually taken by the Arab invaders. The setting is magnificent but the road to it brought memories of some of the hairpin bends on the Lowari Pass in Pakistan, at least this time the road was sealed.
We then continued toward Hama stopping off at Apamea. Built by one of Alexander’s generals in the 2nd Century BC, the columns and pillars of the main thoroughfare are still quite imposing. This street would be 15 metres wide and would stretch at least a kilometre. Visitors are often joined by a flock of sheep passing through as the site isn’t fenced. Earthquakes over the centuries have demolished most of the city though the colonnades have been re erected
It’s good getting to the warmer areas. A smaller van is not so good in colder climates. Getting outside, setting up table & chairs for a meal or the hammocks to relax in is a big part of the enjoyment of motor homing and that is out of the question up till now. I see they are having more snow in the UK, don’t envy them.
5th April, Lataika, Syria
Well that night in the pension at Safranbalu cost us. We discovered over 500kms later that my Kathmandu Goretex jacket was still hanging behind the loo door. Darn nuisance.
The border crossing into Syria yesterday was quite an experience. No problems on the Turkish side but the Syrian side took almost 2 hours to get through and meant going to 12 different offices to get the process completed. The cost was also mind boggling: US$60 per visa US$100 diesel tax $US50 for vehicle insurance plus a couple of bribes and a few bucks to keep my helpers happy. Diesel is very cheap here, if you can get it, about 50c a litre but they get at you by taxing people bringing vehicles into the country.
Still, here we are in Syria with the feeling that the long distances in the quickest time is behind us. We stopped the night outside Aleppo at a camp site and this morning visited Qala’t et Samaan or the Basilica of St Simeon. One of the most extreme of Byzantine holy men he spent 36 years up a pole. He started with a 3 metre one at the and by the time he died he was perched up top of an 18 metre one. The Basilica was built around him and became a pilgrimage destination back in the early 5th century.
I mentioned the lack of diesel: when we crossed the border our tank was almost empty as diesel cost AU$2.85 a litre in Turkey. We intended filling up in Aleppo but as the Basilica was almost on the way we detoured. After visiting the sight and heading to Aleppo we pulled into the first servo to fill up, ‘sorry no dizel’. Six servos later and with a gauge on empty in the middle of Aleppo we pulled into a 7th servo and turned off the motor. I signalled to the bloke it was on empty and the van would stay there until we found some diesel. After a brief consultation they appeared with a 20L can and helped us out. He did this twice. When we finally found a servo with diesel we joined a queue and 90 minutes later had a tank full. Diesel is cheap but in short supply in this country.
On leaving Aleppo we decided to head to the coast for a change. Here we are at Ras Shamra, just north of Lataika and parked metres from this archaeological dig. Don’t know much about it but it’s on a headland, the Mediterranean surrounding us on two sides. If it wasn’t for the rubbish it would be perfect.
6th April
Maybe not so perfect. I was in a deep sleep and Joan had just gone off when there was a knocking on the door. I put some decent clothes on and staggered out. Here were these two blokes saying they were police, which I didn’t believe, but the rifle they had slung over their shoulder did give a touch of authority. After looking at our passports they went off after a shake of hands. We think they were security guards at one of the buildings opposite and just felt obliged to investigate.
The border crossing into Syria yesterday was quite an experience. No problems on the Turkish side but the Syrian side took almost 2 hours to get through and meant going to 12 different offices to get the process completed. The cost was also mind boggling: US$60 per visa US$100 diesel tax $US50 for vehicle insurance plus a couple of bribes and a few bucks to keep my helpers happy. Diesel is very cheap here, if you can get it, about 50c a litre but they get at you by taxing people bringing vehicles into the country.
Still, here we are in Syria with the feeling that the long distances in the quickest time is behind us. We stopped the night outside Aleppo at a camp site and this morning visited Qala’t et Samaan or the Basilica of St Simeon. One of the most extreme of Byzantine holy men he spent 36 years up a pole. He started with a 3 metre one at the and by the time he died he was perched up top of an 18 metre one. The Basilica was built around him and became a pilgrimage destination back in the early 5th century.
I mentioned the lack of diesel: when we crossed the border our tank was almost empty as diesel cost AU$2.85 a litre in Turkey. We intended filling up in Aleppo but as the Basilica was almost on the way we detoured. After visiting the sight and heading to Aleppo we pulled into the first servo to fill up, ‘sorry no dizel’. Six servos later and with a gauge on empty in the middle of Aleppo we pulled into a 7th servo and turned off the motor. I signalled to the bloke it was on empty and the van would stay there until we found some diesel. After a brief consultation they appeared with a 20L can and helped us out. He did this twice. When we finally found a servo with diesel we joined a queue and 90 minutes later had a tank full. Diesel is cheap but in short supply in this country.
On leaving Aleppo we decided to head to the coast for a change. Here we are at Ras Shamra, just north of Lataika and parked metres from this archaeological dig. Don’t know much about it but it’s on a headland, the Mediterranean surrounding us on two sides. If it wasn’t for the rubbish it would be perfect.
6th April
Maybe not so perfect. I was in a deep sleep and Joan had just gone off when there was a knocking on the door. I put some decent clothes on and staggered out. Here were these two blokes saying they were police, which I didn’t believe, but the rifle they had slung over their shoulder did give a touch of authority. After looking at our passports they went off after a shake of hands. We think they were security guards at one of the buildings opposite and just felt obliged to investigate.
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
3rd April. Safranbolu, Turkey
Nice to knock off early from the driving. It was our intention to have stopped off for a couple of days in
Passing through
2nd April. Safranbolu, East of Istanbul
1st April
An uneventful trip across
In the 5 days after leaving the
We decided to not stop in
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
