Friday, August 29, 2008
28th August. Cape Town
28th August.
It was to be a day of finishing off the shopping, but during the night the wind increased and the rain became incessant. Just like the forecasters’ said it would. What better type of weather to visit the
The wind was gale force. We took the funicular from the car park to the top lighthouse where we had trouble standing upright. At least the sun shone intermittently. This lighthouse is some 240 odd metres above the ocean, when built in the 1800s it seemed to be the logical place to build it. What they forgot was the regular low cloud that hangs around this range and when that happens the beam from the lighthouse wouldn’t travel 100 metres. It needed a major catastrophe for the powers that be to realize their mistake and the sinking of the
The lighthouse is actually built on Cape Point which is further south by a 100 metres or so than the
On the drive out to the Cape Joan got me to pull up in a hurry, she had spotted a Southern Right Whale and its calf swimming close to shore in False Bay the bay to the east of the peninsula. We spent 20 minutes watching this massive creature appear to just potter around in a small area. A local walking by acted very hum harrish as though such a site was an every day occurrence.
Cape Town at Last
26th August. Yzerfontein,
It will be quite sad reaching
The last couple of days have again been very eventful. From Nieuwouldville we travelled across the Cederburg Wilderness Area, a wild and woolly plateau enhanced by the freezing weather and intermittent rain for most of the trip then descended by way of a spectacular road to the valley floor before once more ascending over another pass where the sandstone rocks and cliffs surrounded us in a foreboding very trogilydic attitude.
After reaching Clanwilliam we headed back out to the
Today we travelled further south and spent most of the day in the
27th August.
Finally made it.
We are staying at the Lighthouse Backpackers, part of an old hospital complex and only a few kilometres from the centre of town.
We are booked to fly back to AU on the 14th Sept while the van is booked on a boat sails that sails on the 12th Sept. It all seems so final.
Last time we were asked ‘what were the highlights of our trip?’ I think we said the polo at the
Monday, August 25, 2008
Hi, One Post, 4 photos
20th August. Norotshama, Aussenkehr
A lovely camp site on the banks of the Orange River. South Africa lies across the water, some 70 metres away. We will stay here a couple of days then cross into the Republic. It’s a shame to be leaving Namibia; it has been a great place to spend a few weeks. Last night we camped amongst a forest of Quiver trees. They grow on outcrops of rock and resemble upside down florets of broccoli. They would be up to 5 metres in height and spread widely over a 100 hectare area. There were also other strange plants we haven’t seen elsewhere as well.
We left mid morning and drove south through the Fish River Canyon that, again, is a highlight of this country. The gravel roads were good but we for some reason had a bad run of it getting 2 punctures in a matter of an hour or so. This on a very good smooth gravel road. Joan wasn’t wearing her St Christopher she tells me afterwards.
Luckily Norotshama is a large vineyard with a big workshop, the mechanics mended the punctures as best they could but one of the holes was large caused by a sharp rock and the other is on the side wall of the tyre.
It is very isolated out here. We travelled over 100 kms this afternoon without seeing one car and only a couple of houses. At least the 2nd puncture happened a few kilometres from our destination and I was able to use the compressor to pump it up. I have a repair kit which has worked in the past but this tear was too big.
22nd August. Springbok. Sth Africa
Our last frontier crossing and only the 2nd one in Africa where we didn’t have to fork out any money. A pleasant change. We had a relaxing day at Norotshama. The wind blew in the morning while we did some cleaning up but it died down in the afternoon when I was able to take one of the canoes out and paddle across to the Republic of South Africa. The scenery in this area is very wild and rugged on the RSA’s side while on the Namibian side the river flats are covered with vineyards and orchard.
Springbok is a magnet for visitors at this time of the year as the wild flowers are out in bloom. We are so lucky when we travel, we timed it perfectly. We have only started to get into the area where they are but already they are quite something. I wonder if they are the same types of plants that form the display in Western Australia at about the same time.
23rd August.
There is a nature resave a couple of kilometres on from the campsite that we are told has a great display of the wild flowers. We heard this from our South African neighbours at the camp site. From Cape Town, they, like we are finding with South Africans in general, are reticent to approach us. But when the ice is broken we are finding them so very hospitable, love their country, but fear for it future. Before they went back to cook their tea we had been given 2 bottles of very nice Sth African fortified wine, a topographical map of an area south of here they said we must visit as well as an offer to join them in a braai when we get to Cape Town.
Anyhow, getting back to the reserve and the flowers. They were magnificent. A fair few succulents but so many others as ell. There were areas of solid oranges and purples leading up to the rocky outcrops or koppies, then other areas a mixture of whites, yellows, reds, orange and purples. We were able to drive around the reserve and could stop whenever we felt like it. It was a most stimulating morning. In the afternoon I watched the Wallabies beat the Springboks sitting alongside a couple of rabid Springbok supporters. All I could say was it was good to see the best team on the day win.
A lovely camp site on the banks of the Orange River. South Africa lies across the water, some 70 metres away. We will stay here a couple of days then cross into the Republic. It’s a shame to be leaving Namibia; it has been a great place to spend a few weeks. Last night we camped amongst a forest of Quiver trees. They grow on outcrops of rock and resemble upside down florets of broccoli. They would be up to 5 metres in height and spread widely over a 100 hectare area. There were also other strange plants we haven’t seen elsewhere as well.
We left mid morning and drove south through the Fish River Canyon that, again, is a highlight of this country. The gravel roads were good but we for some reason had a bad run of it getting 2 punctures in a matter of an hour or so. This on a very good smooth gravel road. Joan wasn’t wearing her St Christopher she tells me afterwards.
Luckily Norotshama is a large vineyard with a big workshop, the mechanics mended the punctures as best they could but one of the holes was large caused by a sharp rock and the other is on the side wall of the tyre.
It is very isolated out here. We travelled over 100 kms this afternoon without seeing one car and only a couple of houses. At least the 2nd puncture happened a few kilometres from our destination and I was able to use the compressor to pump it up. I have a repair kit which has worked in the past but this tear was too big.
22nd August. Springbok. Sth Africa
Our last frontier crossing and only the 2nd one in Africa where we didn’t have to fork out any money. A pleasant change. We had a relaxing day at Norotshama. The wind blew in the morning while we did some cleaning up but it died down in the afternoon when I was able to take one of the canoes out and paddle across to the Republic of South Africa. The scenery in this area is very wild and rugged on the RSA’s side while on the Namibian side the river flats are covered with vineyards and orchard.
Springbok is a magnet for visitors at this time of the year as the wild flowers are out in bloom. We are so lucky when we travel, we timed it perfectly. We have only started to get into the area where they are but already they are quite something. I wonder if they are the same types of plants that form the display in Western Australia at about the same time.
23rd August.
There is a nature resave a couple of kilometres on from the campsite that we are told has a great display of the wild flowers. We heard this from our South African neighbours at the camp site. From Cape Town, they, like we are finding with South Africans in general, are reticent to approach us. But when the ice is broken we are finding them so very hospitable, love their country, but fear for it future. Before they went back to cook their tea we had been given 2 bottles of very nice Sth African fortified wine, a topographical map of an area south of here they said we must visit as well as an offer to join them in a braai when we get to Cape Town.
Anyhow, getting back to the reserve and the flowers. They were magnificent. A fair few succulents but so many others as ell. There were areas of solid oranges and purples leading up to the rocky outcrops or koppies, then other areas a mixture of whites, yellows, reds, orange and purples. We were able to drive around the reserve and could stop whenever we felt like it. It was a most stimulating morning. In the afternoon I watched the Wallabies beat the Springboks sitting alongside a couple of rabid Springbok supporters. All I could say was it was good to see the best team on the day win.
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
19th. One post, 4 images
17th August. Solitaire
I had to start a blog from Solitaire. It is exactly as the name suggests: a lonely bleak wind swept outpost on the edge of the Namib Desert. The town consists of a servo, a lodge, a camp site and a small shop. The shop has found an interesting gimmick; it makes fantastic apple pies and sells about 200 big slices of the pie a day. Everybody who passes comes in for one. The wind blew gale force all night with a chill to go with it. But it is situated in a spectacular setting with flat land falling away to desert sand surrounded by low mountains that were red with the setting sun on our arrival last night. The camp site is exposed, a braai was out of the question but we were very comfortable in the van eating our chicken curry. Before going to bed we noticed a partial lunar eclipse was occurring.
Today we drive a few kilometres to the red desert sands at Sossusvlei. It is another highlight of this country.
Coming down to the desert yesterday we travelled over a mountain pass that had a very steep decline on the western side. Trucks, caravans and trailers are banned from using it. Part of the steepest sections were cobbled with a roughened surface for cars to get a grip. The view from the top was most impressive and difficult to catch the panorama in a photo.
19th East of Hehnringhausen
The thing with these dunes at Sossulvlei is to be amongst them at dawn. But the entrance to the park gate is 62 kms away at Sesriem and a secondary gate doesn’t open to 5.30. There is an outer gate that opens at 6.30. They have placed the park camp site in between these two gates so those staying on the park camp site have an hour up on those camped outside. But the catch is they charge N$600 (AU$85) for 2 persons to stay at their camp site whereas the normal price to camp is in the $10-20 range. It’s a rip off which is annoying but then a guess it’s a bit like Uluru where they charge an exorbitant price as well.
The dunes at dawn were impressive. A continuous flow of these mountainous dunes with the highest about 300 metres above the surrounding plain. They are a brilliant orange/red in colour and with the early light they literary lit up. We climbed one of them to get a better view. A slow task though by walking along the crest the slope was not too strenuous. I hope the panorama shot on the blog does it justice.
We headed south/east from Sesriem, we were thinking of camping out for the night then came upon this quiet camp ground not far off the road. Woken this morning by a myriad bird calls, very nice.
I had to start a blog from Solitaire. It is exactly as the name suggests: a lonely bleak wind swept outpost on the edge of the Namib Desert. The town consists of a servo, a lodge, a camp site and a small shop. The shop has found an interesting gimmick; it makes fantastic apple pies and sells about 200 big slices of the pie a day. Everybody who passes comes in for one. The wind blew gale force all night with a chill to go with it. But it is situated in a spectacular setting with flat land falling away to desert sand surrounded by low mountains that were red with the setting sun on our arrival last night. The camp site is exposed, a braai was out of the question but we were very comfortable in the van eating our chicken curry. Before going to bed we noticed a partial lunar eclipse was occurring.
Today we drive a few kilometres to the red desert sands at Sossusvlei. It is another highlight of this country.
Coming down to the desert yesterday we travelled over a mountain pass that had a very steep decline on the western side. Trucks, caravans and trailers are banned from using it. Part of the steepest sections were cobbled with a roughened surface for cars to get a grip. The view from the top was most impressive and difficult to catch the panorama in a photo.
19th East of Hehnringhausen
The thing with these dunes at Sossulvlei is to be amongst them at dawn. But the entrance to the park gate is 62 kms away at Sesriem and a secondary gate doesn’t open to 5.30. There is an outer gate that opens at 6.30. They have placed the park camp site in between these two gates so those staying on the park camp site have an hour up on those camped outside. But the catch is they charge N$600 (AU$85) for 2 persons to stay at their camp site whereas the normal price to camp is in the $10-20 range. It’s a rip off which is annoying but then a guess it’s a bit like Uluru where they charge an exorbitant price as well.
The dunes at dawn were impressive. A continuous flow of these mountainous dunes with the highest about 300 metres above the surrounding plain. They are a brilliant orange/red in colour and with the early light they literary lit up. We climbed one of them to get a better view. A slow task though by walking along the crest the slope was not too strenuous. I hope the panorama shot on the blog does it justice.
We headed south/east from Sesriem, we were thinking of camping out for the night then came upon this quiet camp ground not far off the road. Woken this morning by a myriad bird calls, very nice.
Saturday, August 16, 2008
16th August. Windhoek
14th August. Spitzkoppe,
Last night we were at the camp site on a deserted stretch of shoreline overlooking the waters of the Atlantic. Tonight we are a 100kms inland on what has been called the best camp site in the country. Run by the local community the camp site covers a good 3 sq kms in and around these massive granite hills. In Australia they would be called mountains. Each camping spot is tucked in amongst the rock separated from each other by a couple of hundred metres or more. You just drive around until you find a site that appeals. The side of the hills are covered by boulders some weighing hundreds of tonnes and which, you would think, could roll down on you at any time. There are no showers apart from ones back at the entrance and there are only long drop toilets interspersed here and there. You have to bring everything in with you. The silence is overwhelming, apart from the birds calling.
Tomorrow we drive the short distance to Windhoek, the capital where we will spend a couple of days.
We will be a further week or so in Namibia but it is turning out as one of our favourite African countries and one we could easily come back to for a couple of months. The only other one we think of along the these lines is Ethiopia.
Last night we were at the camp site on a deserted stretch of shoreline overlooking the waters of the Atlantic. Tonight we are a 100kms inland on what has been called the best camp site in the country. Run by the local community the camp site covers a good 3 sq kms in and around these massive granite hills. In Australia they would be called mountains. Each camping spot is tucked in amongst the rock separated from each other by a couple of hundred metres or more. You just drive around until you find a site that appeals. The side of the hills are covered by boulders some weighing hundreds of tonnes and which, you would think, could roll down on you at any time. There are no showers apart from ones back at the entrance and there are only long drop toilets interspersed here and there. You have to bring everything in with you. The silence is overwhelming, apart from the birds calling.
Tomorrow we drive the short distance to Windhoek, the capital where we will spend a couple of days.
We will be a further week or so in Namibia but it is turning out as one of our favourite African countries and one we could easily come back to for a couple of months. The only other one we think of along the these lines is Ethiopia.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Hi
Two posts and a few photos. Connections are great here. The Etosha NP post might make interesting reading.
Gary
Gary
12th August. Cape Cross, Atlantic Coast
Cape Cross, Atlantic Coast. Namibia.
Quite a big day today. We reached the West coast of Africa. 30 days and over 6,000 kms ago we left the east coast at Peponi Beach in Tanzania. We knew we were getting close because we could see this cloud bank that hovers over the Atlantic coast. This coast line must be one of the bleakest anywhere. Early Portuguese sailors called it Areias de Inferno or Sands of Hell. To them, being shipwrecked on this treacherous coast would mean no chance of survival. For hundreds of kilometres down the coast and a hundred kilometres inland there is no water. We are camped tonight metres from the ocean. On arrival we were told there is no water as the water truck hasn’t arrived. Some things don’t change. The area attracts hundreds of surf fishermen in the season, with this campsite catering for over 500 visitors I would say at a guess yet we are the only ones here tonight.
We’ve done a couple of touristy things since leaving Etosha like a Petrified Forest and some very good rock carvings west of the national park. We have passed through some memorable scenery much of it very reminiscent of scenery in the outback of Australia. That is until you see three elephants passing by.
The carvings were very impressive. Carved by the desert Bush Men some 4000 years ago they are in a very good state. Chiselled into the sandstone they depict animals that they felt helped to bring the rains and good hunting. The carvings are reputed to be the best in the country.
From there we travelled south west to where we are now. We went a little north from here before settling for the night, to the Cape Cross seal colony. The barking and the smell of the seals strike you before you get to them but they are still an impressive sight. There must be over 4000 in the colony, it would be impossible to walk between them, while out at sea hundreds are diving for fish or just gallivanting around. A group of silver backed jackals hovered around looking for a neglected calf or an old codger ready to cark it.
Quite a big day today. We reached the West coast of Africa. 30 days and over 6,000 kms ago we left the east coast at Peponi Beach in Tanzania. We knew we were getting close because we could see this cloud bank that hovers over the Atlantic coast. This coast line must be one of the bleakest anywhere. Early Portuguese sailors called it Areias de Inferno or Sands of Hell. To them, being shipwrecked on this treacherous coast would mean no chance of survival. For hundreds of kilometres down the coast and a hundred kilometres inland there is no water. We are camped tonight metres from the ocean. On arrival we were told there is no water as the water truck hasn’t arrived. Some things don’t change. The area attracts hundreds of surf fishermen in the season, with this campsite catering for over 500 visitors I would say at a guess yet we are the only ones here tonight.
We’ve done a couple of touristy things since leaving Etosha like a Petrified Forest and some very good rock carvings west of the national park. We have passed through some memorable scenery much of it very reminiscent of scenery in the outback of Australia. That is until you see three elephants passing by.
The carvings were very impressive. Carved by the desert Bush Men some 4000 years ago they are in a very good state. Chiselled into the sandstone they depict animals that they felt helped to bring the rains and good hunting. The carvings are reputed to be the best in the country.
From there we travelled south west to where we are now. We went a little north from here before settling for the night, to the Cape Cross seal colony. The barking and the smell of the seals strike you before you get to them but they are still an impressive sight. There must be over 4000 in the colony, it would be impossible to walk between them, while out at sea hundreds are diving for fish or just gallivanting around. A group of silver backed jackals hovered around looking for a neglected calf or an old codger ready to cark it.
9th August. Etosha NP
There have been so many amazing sights we have seen in the 2 days we have been in the park. To pick out any two in particular would be hard but maybe if I talk of one of the smallest and the largest mammals we have seen it may give you an idea. Yesterday we drove down to the Kalkhewel waterhole late in the afternoon. There were giraffes, an elephant, zebras as well as a hundred or so guinea fowls, and scores of Cape turtle dove. The doves were at the water, the animals were guardedly approaching the water while the guinea fowl did the wonderfully stupid display in the dirt and chasing around after each other.
Suddenly we noticed an African wild cat appear on the scene. Similar in size to or domestic cats, it has quite a pug nose. It made its way quickly to the edge of the water and hid between some of the large stones nearby. The guinea fowl set off the alarm with large hooting and, surprisingly, en masse, headed towards the cat stopping 5 metres or so away. Their cacophony continued. The cat crouched and waited. Shortly, now they had sounded the warning. The guinea fowl went off to carry on their dust bathing. Doves must be quite thick because it wasn’t long before they gained up courage and were once more flying in to drink. One took a flight path too close to the cat and ended up minus a few feathers. Still the cat waited. Another one came in, this time the cat leapt almost 2 metres in to the air and grabbed it. It was so quick. The other doves hardly noticed. It hurried away the dove fluttering fruitlessly in its jaws.
Today, again late in the afternoon, we visited the Salvadora water hole that’s in the centre of the park. There were 4 other Vehicles there including a Landrover with a film crew on board. The parking area was above the water hole and, unbeknownst to us, a metre or two above the spring from where the water flowed. Two lionesses relaxed on the edge of the water, seemingly oblivious of what was happening nearby. Cheetahs were meant to be present in the area so we spent a while looking out for them. Suddenly a very large elephant lumbered up from the west. He had been wallowing in the white clay that is prevalent in parts of the park resulting in a two tone creature. He seemed in a hurry, had a perfunctory taste of the pond water as he went past but blew that out then headed up the hill to the spring. Why have second hand water when you can get the real thing. At this point he was less than 5 metres from the cars, his proximity caused a couple of the cars to pull back but when they realized he wasn’t coming up they moved closer and watched. He spent a good 20 minutes drinking while everybody took photos and the film crew must have been ecstatic with the footage they were getting. Then all hell broke loose, the elephant headed up into the car park, his ears waving, swaying and his trunk raised. Cars went in all directions. I was in a position where I had to reverse then go forward to be able to move. The bloody elephant must have been laughing to himself on the commotion he was causing. He strolled confidently along the road, the film crew ahead catching it all. Suddenly he would turn around facing the cars following as if to say, ‘keep your distance or I will have ya!’ The last we saw of him before we turned off in another direction was him walking along the road causing consternation to a couple of other cars that had come up in the other direction. We laughed afterwards but at the time you se these behemoths and just thing how they could turn your car over just like that.
It’s a very large park, Etosha, with a varied type of vegetation. One moment you are in a grass covered plain that has hundreds of springbok, zebras, gemsbok, and wildebeest, then you are in a tree covered area favoured by the elephants and giraffes. The roads take you to the water holes that are dotted around the park. At times you might see 6 or 7 types of animals or large birds at the one water hole, of course of there are lions lying around the other animals are reticent to drink.
It’s a wonderful park, we have seen so much, good roads, good facilities and a good price of $16 per day all up. Compare that to Serengeti where they ripped us off 140 just to transit the park on diabolical roads. The three camping lodges in the park are expensive to stay at, about $50 a camp site, but there are some great lodges with camping just outside the gates less than half that price with personal ensuites per site. Usually the lodge has a viewing platform overlooking a water hole where you can sip you G&Ts watching the animals drink as the sun goes down. Very civilized.
Suddenly we noticed an African wild cat appear on the scene. Similar in size to or domestic cats, it has quite a pug nose. It made its way quickly to the edge of the water and hid between some of the large stones nearby. The guinea fowl set off the alarm with large hooting and, surprisingly, en masse, headed towards the cat stopping 5 metres or so away. Their cacophony continued. The cat crouched and waited. Shortly, now they had sounded the warning. The guinea fowl went off to carry on their dust bathing. Doves must be quite thick because it wasn’t long before they gained up courage and were once more flying in to drink. One took a flight path too close to the cat and ended up minus a few feathers. Still the cat waited. Another one came in, this time the cat leapt almost 2 metres in to the air and grabbed it. It was so quick. The other doves hardly noticed. It hurried away the dove fluttering fruitlessly in its jaws.
Today, again late in the afternoon, we visited the Salvadora water hole that’s in the centre of the park. There were 4 other Vehicles there including a Landrover with a film crew on board. The parking area was above the water hole and, unbeknownst to us, a metre or two above the spring from where the water flowed. Two lionesses relaxed on the edge of the water, seemingly oblivious of what was happening nearby. Cheetahs were meant to be present in the area so we spent a while looking out for them. Suddenly a very large elephant lumbered up from the west. He had been wallowing in the white clay that is prevalent in parts of the park resulting in a two tone creature. He seemed in a hurry, had a perfunctory taste of the pond water as he went past but blew that out then headed up the hill to the spring. Why have second hand water when you can get the real thing. At this point he was less than 5 metres from the cars, his proximity caused a couple of the cars to pull back but when they realized he wasn’t coming up they moved closer and watched. He spent a good 20 minutes drinking while everybody took photos and the film crew must have been ecstatic with the footage they were getting. Then all hell broke loose, the elephant headed up into the car park, his ears waving, swaying and his trunk raised. Cars went in all directions. I was in a position where I had to reverse then go forward to be able to move. The bloody elephant must have been laughing to himself on the commotion he was causing. He strolled confidently along the road, the film crew ahead catching it all. Suddenly he would turn around facing the cars following as if to say, ‘keep your distance or I will have ya!’ The last we saw of him before we turned off in another direction was him walking along the road causing consternation to a couple of other cars that had come up in the other direction. We laughed afterwards but at the time you se these behemoths and just thing how they could turn your car over just like that.
It’s a very large park, Etosha, with a varied type of vegetation. One moment you are in a grass covered plain that has hundreds of springbok, zebras, gemsbok, and wildebeest, then you are in a tree covered area favoured by the elephants and giraffes. The roads take you to the water holes that are dotted around the park. At times you might see 6 or 7 types of animals or large birds at the one water hole, of course of there are lions lying around the other animals are reticent to drink.
It’s a wonderful park, we have seen so much, good roads, good facilities and a good price of $16 per day all up. Compare that to Serengeti where they ripped us off 140 just to transit the park on diabolical roads. The three camping lodges in the park are expensive to stay at, about $50 a camp site, but there are some great lodges with camping just outside the gates less than half that price with personal ensuites per site. Usually the lodge has a viewing platform overlooking a water hole where you can sip you G&Ts watching the animals drink as the sun goes down. Very civilized.
Thursday, August 7, 2008
1 Post & some photos
7th August. Near Grootfontein, Namibia.
The Caprivi strip was a boring drive. For the 2 days we covered 800kms passing many villages but apart from those there was nothing but scrubby trees on straight roads. The good thing going for it we didn’t see one pot hole the whole journey. The road off to the National Park was gravel but wide and a good surface. This. I believe, is what we can expect in Namibia. Today we go to the Etosha NP. The jewel in Namibia’s tourism crown. I expect there to be many other tourists there but we experienced the isolation of Muhanga NP which makes up for it.
Last night we stopped off at the Die Kraal Camping and Steak Restaurant. It was a cool night but the owner had a roaring brazier going. We sat down to a meal of zebra steak, roast potatoes and fresh beans. There is a butchery a short distance from here where we will go back and buy a couple of steaks. As I expected, the native animals are farmed here, yesterday we passed large areas of land fenced with high fencing that had vertical wooden battens every foot or so, I guess that is for the animals to realize there is a fence there. You have to be careful travelling through Botswana and Namibia; there has been an outbreak of foot and mouth disease somewhere and there are regular inspections on the highway where you have to stand in disinfectant and the wheels of the vehicle is sprayed. They also confiscate any red meat you have. We socialised with a group of Austrians last night, 8 in number, they had had meat for a couple of meals for them all confiscated the day before.
Incidentally, what started out as a quick meal on our own turned into quite a celebration as it was one of the group’s birthday, champagne was presented, the red wine flowed and the French cognac afterwards was much appreciated. Things are cheap here compared to AU, I should say food. But then we are getting almost 8 Namib$ to our dollar so a loaf of heavy health bread that would cost $4 in AU is costing $10Namib, the equivalent of $1.20. A 3 course meal at the resort the other night with a generous glass of wine cost $139$N each or $18AU. After Zambia’s prices it is great.
The Caprivi strip was a boring drive. For the 2 days we covered 800kms passing many villages but apart from those there was nothing but scrubby trees on straight roads. The good thing going for it we didn’t see one pot hole the whole journey. The road off to the National Park was gravel but wide and a good surface. This. I believe, is what we can expect in Namibia. Today we go to the Etosha NP. The jewel in Namibia’s tourism crown. I expect there to be many other tourists there but we experienced the isolation of Muhanga NP which makes up for it.
Last night we stopped off at the Die Kraal Camping and Steak Restaurant. It was a cool night but the owner had a roaring brazier going. We sat down to a meal of zebra steak, roast potatoes and fresh beans. There is a butchery a short distance from here where we will go back and buy a couple of steaks. As I expected, the native animals are farmed here, yesterday we passed large areas of land fenced with high fencing that had vertical wooden battens every foot or so, I guess that is for the animals to realize there is a fence there. You have to be careful travelling through Botswana and Namibia; there has been an outbreak of foot and mouth disease somewhere and there are regular inspections on the highway where you have to stand in disinfectant and the wheels of the vehicle is sprayed. They also confiscate any red meat you have. We socialised with a group of Austrians last night, 8 in number, they had had meat for a couple of meals for them all confiscated the day before.
Incidentally, what started out as a quick meal on our own turned into quite a celebration as it was one of the group’s birthday, champagne was presented, the red wine flowed and the French cognac afterwards was much appreciated. Things are cheap here compared to AU, I should say food. But then we are getting almost 8 Namib$ to our dollar so a loaf of heavy health bread that would cost $4 in AU is costing $10Namib, the equivalent of $1.20. A 3 course meal at the resort the other night with a generous glass of wine cost $139$N each or $18AU. After Zambia’s prices it is great.
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
6th August. Rundu, Namiba
3rd August. Katima Lulilo, Namibia.
I met a Texan today who used to play rugby while he was in the army and after that at university. I was tickled pink. To make it better he was very keen on the All Blacks and subscribed to their news letter on the internet. Well, what could I do on an occasion such as this but to give him the New Zealand scarf I wore to the World Cup last year. Patrick and his 2 children are over here for a vacation and are entranced by the country as we have been.
At the moment we are camped on the edge of the Zambezi River at this place, Katima Lulilo. It is another magnificent river and with such an exotic name how can it be other than entrancing. The sun set in a ball over the water while 2 fishermen cast into the deep water. Hippos are groaning again downstream and swimming is not recommended because of the crocs.
An interesting day today: we left Livingstone mid morning then travelled a short distance to the Botswana border situated on the Zambezi. The idea was to cross into Botswana then spend a couple of days in the Chobe NP . However, when we reached the park entrance we were told the camp site was 30kms into the park on a deep sandy track. 4WD was compulsory with a dif lock on the vehicle. We decided then to just travel on the transit road through the park and go into Namibia the same day. It was only a 50km drive on the transit road and although we kept an eye out for animals, saw nothing for the first 30kms. Suddenly we saw an elephant on the side of the road, the park is famous for its elephants. We stopped and a herd of them followed the leader crossing the road. They just kept coming, we counted well over 50 in that herd. We saw another 2 herds crossing of a smaller number. With that first herd, I pulled up to where they were disappearing into the bush when the last male turned around, rushed at us flapping his massive ears and trumpeting. From other times I know he wouldn’t keep on going, it’s just a bit of bluff, but is still a little scary
5th August. Mahunga Safari Lodge.
You’ve got to take your hat off to these Namibians: this camp sit is part of the lodge but it has everything you could possibly want and all for $14 per night. Once again we are parked on the edge of a great river, this time the Okavanga, but this river doesn’t find an outlet to the sea, instead it exhausts itself in the sands of the Kalahari Desert. The delta formed in the desert is famed as THE place to see wildlife but as the only way to get in is by plane and the lodges start at about $350 p/p per night it is outside our budget. We had to be content with the Mahunga Game Reserve a few kms from the lodge. Famed for its elephants, we saw everything but this morning but on the drive this afternoon we did see a good size herd. Sch an array of animals we came upon this morning: giraffes, zebras, blue wildebeests, hartebeests, various other types of antelopes, hippos mating (not a pretty sight) and Cape buffalo. At one point where we were able to get out of the car, the flood plain lay below us. From that point we were able to see 40-50 various types of birds with one sweep of our binoculars. It was amazing, Ross & Cathy eat your heart out.
Not sure of the details but they must farm the wild animals here in Namibia as we had a delicious eland stroganoff for dinner tonight at the restaurant. I don’t think they would be allowed to shoot them n the wild.
I met a Texan today who used to play rugby while he was in the army and after that at university. I was tickled pink. To make it better he was very keen on the All Blacks and subscribed to their news letter on the internet. Well, what could I do on an occasion such as this but to give him the New Zealand scarf I wore to the World Cup last year. Patrick and his 2 children are over here for a vacation and are entranced by the country as we have been.
At the moment we are camped on the edge of the Zambezi River at this place, Katima Lulilo. It is another magnificent river and with such an exotic name how can it be other than entrancing. The sun set in a ball over the water while 2 fishermen cast into the deep water. Hippos are groaning again downstream and swimming is not recommended because of the crocs.
An interesting day today: we left Livingstone mid morning then travelled a short distance to the Botswana border situated on the Zambezi. The idea was to cross into Botswana then spend a couple of days in the Chobe NP . However, when we reached the park entrance we were told the camp site was 30kms into the park on a deep sandy track. 4WD was compulsory with a dif lock on the vehicle. We decided then to just travel on the transit road through the park and go into Namibia the same day. It was only a 50km drive on the transit road and although we kept an eye out for animals, saw nothing for the first 30kms. Suddenly we saw an elephant on the side of the road, the park is famous for its elephants. We stopped and a herd of them followed the leader crossing the road. They just kept coming, we counted well over 50 in that herd. We saw another 2 herds crossing of a smaller number. With that first herd, I pulled up to where they were disappearing into the bush when the last male turned around, rushed at us flapping his massive ears and trumpeting. From other times I know he wouldn’t keep on going, it’s just a bit of bluff, but is still a little scary
5th August. Mahunga Safari Lodge.
You’ve got to take your hat off to these Namibians: this camp sit is part of the lodge but it has everything you could possibly want and all for $14 per night. Once again we are parked on the edge of a great river, this time the Okavanga, but this river doesn’t find an outlet to the sea, instead it exhausts itself in the sands of the Kalahari Desert. The delta formed in the desert is famed as THE place to see wildlife but as the only way to get in is by plane and the lodges start at about $350 p/p per night it is outside our budget. We had to be content with the Mahunga Game Reserve a few kms from the lodge. Famed for its elephants, we saw everything but this morning but on the drive this afternoon we did see a good size herd. Sch an array of animals we came upon this morning: giraffes, zebras, blue wildebeests, hartebeests, various other types of antelopes, hippos mating (not a pretty sight) and Cape buffalo. At one point where we were able to get out of the car, the flood plain lay below us. From that point we were able to see 40-50 various types of birds with one sweep of our binoculars. It was amazing, Ross & Cathy eat your heart out.
Not sure of the details but they must farm the wild animals here in Namibia as we had a delicious eland stroganoff for dinner tonight at the restaurant. I don’t think they would be allowed to shoot them n the wild.
31st July. Lusaka, Zambia
31st July. Lusaka, Zambia.
This city has been quite surprising. Lilongwe was like a little village that expanded upon itself but Lusaka is full of malls, modern shops and so very clean. Prices are getting close to Australian prices but the incomes must be higher as the people are well dressed and seem to spend a fair bit of money on their appearance. Plenty of cars in the city although once you get away from the metropolis they thin out. Zambia has one of the lowest people per kilometre in Africa and a lot of the country we drove through today was devoid of villages and locals.
We made it to Lusaka, a distance of 550kms, nursing a bulging back tyre and the spare as good as useless. It was a case of 80kph with anticipating a blow out at any time. Quite good driving at that speed; it gives you time to look around if there aren’t pot holes to contend with.
The camp site is 10kms out of Lusaka, a large camping ground with chalets set around the verge. We were surprised to see a herd of zebras wander across the camp ground to settle on a bit of green grass between a couple of chalets oblivious of the people around them. A pity a couple of silly yapping dogs disturbed them and set them away.
We finally drew ahead of Chris & Janet, the English couple we first met up with in central Tanzania. We have met up again 6 times but as they have a lot of time to kill I doubt we will see them again on this trip. They were the couple that drove to the North Cape in Norway before heading south. A lovely couple of similar age and with similar interests. While on Lake Malawi they said they had never had had a meal of fish cooked with the scales on. This is a favourite of mine as I always feel removing the scales is sacrilege as it’s the scales that hold all the juices in. So they (Chris) cooked the first course and dessert (Chris) while we cooked up new spuds, ratatouille and 4 tiger fish bought from the fishing boats after they had come in from fishing off the Mozambique coast. It was a delicious meal washed down with the ‘best’ cask of Sth African red available in Malawi (the only one)..
Still a long way from the end of this trip but we were discussing yesterday on the lovely attitude the local people have. There hasn’t been once when we have felt threatened or ill at ease with the locals. Sure, we haven’t gone out of our way to meet them on their own terms but when we stop on the side of the road for morning tea or lunch, the locals passing by always give us a wave, break out into a broad smile, and if are close to hand, give us the African hand shake and are delighted if we reciprocate. For the uninitiated it’s a case of shaking hands as usual, then clasping each other’s thumbs, then finishing off with another ordinary hand shake where the hands virtually slide off each other’s palms. It ‘s just a little more personal than the ordinary handshake.
1st August. Livingstone, Zambia
A long drive, 470kms, with the last 60kms a mass of magnificent pot holes. A side road has been formed alongside the tarmac that usually is the better route to take.
Livingstone is the base in Zambia for visiting the Victoria Falls. Also the base for the thrill seekers to satiate their lust with bungey jumping, white water rafting, paragliding, jet skiing and everything else that tickles your fancy. We are staying at a camp site not far from the falls and will visit them tomorrow.
The tyres I had fitted in Lusaka were a narrower tyre than what I had on but were the same depth and radius which I believe are the important thing in an all wheel drive vehicle. Pleased to say it seems to be travelling well. From here we cross into northern Botswana visiting the Chobe NP then into the Caprivi strip, part of Namibia that featured so much in the civil war in Angola. It is a thin strip of land, part of Namibia that stretches for some 400kms before coming into Namibia proper. Looking forward to Namibia, so many people have told us how lovely it is but we are starting to think we are running out of time to visit everything we should there. We have met a couple from Brisbane here at this camp site that have hired a 4x4 from Kea SA that has a great arrangement fitted on the back of a Toyota Hilux. Another food for thought.
This trip started off as a twice in a life time trip for us, something to remember in or dotage. But you may have picked up by now that it has become much more than that. It has opened up so many opportunities in what is possible with regards further travel. We have met so many people who have made their self drive travel part of their lives. From Will & Gunilla, a German/Norwegian couple whom we met in Nairobi in their massive MAN truck, they have sold up everything back in Germany to do nothing but travel. They have been on the road for 11 years, he is almost blind and they want to make the most of it before he loses his sight completely. To Anne & Keith the couple from Narromine who have bought a Hilux in Namibia and come over every few months to see more of Africa. Keith is an ex Qantas 747-400 pilot, has had a couple of health scares but again, wants to make the most of it. Henk & Mariannne, a Dutch couple we met at Lake Bunyoni in Uganda, another couple who travel for 3 months then fly home where Marianne works for 3 months then back they go to pick up their Toyota and off they go again. I think we have met more people from the Netherlands than anywhere. Today we had a surprise phone call from Reidar & Ellen, the Norwegian couple we first met in Luxor and ran into them 5 times after that., They had returned to Norway for a few months after leaving their Land cruiser in Cape Town ready for their next visit. Completely out of the blue, it was lovely to here from them, all they wanted to know was where we were and how we were going. So many lovely and interesting people. It’s a way of life alien to so many people, usually they are happy to travel around Australia 4 times. Yet there is so much they can do if they just step out of their comfort zone. As some Greek philosopher said ‘The first step of any journey is always the hardest.’
Enough waffling: today we visited the Victoria Falls. Like The Taj Mahal, Uluru and the pyramids you know all about them, know there will be hordes of tourists, yet when you get there they are just awe inspiring. So much water channelling over so many parts of the 1.2km wide falls it is just breathtaking. Upstream where the water is more subdued we found a picnic table on the edge of the water. There was a sign saying a permit had to be acquired as that area was part of the national park. There were 2 guards there to police the rule. After asking them if it would be okay if we had a quick picnic lunch there the senior bloke thought a while and agreed. I think he wanted a bit of a bribe, but after we had eaten we made up a couple of sandwiches and took it over to them. Broad smiles broke out and we departed with everyone feeling a win/win situation had occurred.
This city has been quite surprising. Lilongwe was like a little village that expanded upon itself but Lusaka is full of malls, modern shops and so very clean. Prices are getting close to Australian prices but the incomes must be higher as the people are well dressed and seem to spend a fair bit of money on their appearance. Plenty of cars in the city although once you get away from the metropolis they thin out. Zambia has one of the lowest people per kilometre in Africa and a lot of the country we drove through today was devoid of villages and locals.
We made it to Lusaka, a distance of 550kms, nursing a bulging back tyre and the spare as good as useless. It was a case of 80kph with anticipating a blow out at any time. Quite good driving at that speed; it gives you time to look around if there aren’t pot holes to contend with.
The camp site is 10kms out of Lusaka, a large camping ground with chalets set around the verge. We were surprised to see a herd of zebras wander across the camp ground to settle on a bit of green grass between a couple of chalets oblivious of the people around them. A pity a couple of silly yapping dogs disturbed them and set them away.
We finally drew ahead of Chris & Janet, the English couple we first met up with in central Tanzania. We have met up again 6 times but as they have a lot of time to kill I doubt we will see them again on this trip. They were the couple that drove to the North Cape in Norway before heading south. A lovely couple of similar age and with similar interests. While on Lake Malawi they said they had never had had a meal of fish cooked with the scales on. This is a favourite of mine as I always feel removing the scales is sacrilege as it’s the scales that hold all the juices in. So they (Chris) cooked the first course and dessert (Chris) while we cooked up new spuds, ratatouille and 4 tiger fish bought from the fishing boats after they had come in from fishing off the Mozambique coast. It was a delicious meal washed down with the ‘best’ cask of Sth African red available in Malawi (the only one)..
Still a long way from the end of this trip but we were discussing yesterday on the lovely attitude the local people have. There hasn’t been once when we have felt threatened or ill at ease with the locals. Sure, we haven’t gone out of our way to meet them on their own terms but when we stop on the side of the road for morning tea or lunch, the locals passing by always give us a wave, break out into a broad smile, and if are close to hand, give us the African hand shake and are delighted if we reciprocate. For the uninitiated it’s a case of shaking hands as usual, then clasping each other’s thumbs, then finishing off with another ordinary hand shake where the hands virtually slide off each other’s palms. It ‘s just a little more personal than the ordinary handshake.
1st August. Livingstone, Zambia
A long drive, 470kms, with the last 60kms a mass of magnificent pot holes. A side road has been formed alongside the tarmac that usually is the better route to take.
Livingstone is the base in Zambia for visiting the Victoria Falls. Also the base for the thrill seekers to satiate their lust with bungey jumping, white water rafting, paragliding, jet skiing and everything else that tickles your fancy. We are staying at a camp site not far from the falls and will visit them tomorrow.
The tyres I had fitted in Lusaka were a narrower tyre than what I had on but were the same depth and radius which I believe are the important thing in an all wheel drive vehicle. Pleased to say it seems to be travelling well. From here we cross into northern Botswana visiting the Chobe NP then into the Caprivi strip, part of Namibia that featured so much in the civil war in Angola. It is a thin strip of land, part of Namibia that stretches for some 400kms before coming into Namibia proper. Looking forward to Namibia, so many people have told us how lovely it is but we are starting to think we are running out of time to visit everything we should there. We have met a couple from Brisbane here at this camp site that have hired a 4x4 from Kea SA that has a great arrangement fitted on the back of a Toyota Hilux. Another food for thought.
This trip started off as a twice in a life time trip for us, something to remember in or dotage. But you may have picked up by now that it has become much more than that. It has opened up so many opportunities in what is possible with regards further travel. We have met so many people who have made their self drive travel part of their lives. From Will & Gunilla, a German/Norwegian couple whom we met in Nairobi in their massive MAN truck, they have sold up everything back in Germany to do nothing but travel. They have been on the road for 11 years, he is almost blind and they want to make the most of it before he loses his sight completely. To Anne & Keith the couple from Narromine who have bought a Hilux in Namibia and come over every few months to see more of Africa. Keith is an ex Qantas 747-400 pilot, has had a couple of health scares but again, wants to make the most of it. Henk & Mariannne, a Dutch couple we met at Lake Bunyoni in Uganda, another couple who travel for 3 months then fly home where Marianne works for 3 months then back they go to pick up their Toyota and off they go again. I think we have met more people from the Netherlands than anywhere. Today we had a surprise phone call from Reidar & Ellen, the Norwegian couple we first met in Luxor and ran into them 5 times after that., They had returned to Norway for a few months after leaving their Land cruiser in Cape Town ready for their next visit. Completely out of the blue, it was lovely to here from them, all they wanted to know was where we were and how we were going. So many lovely and interesting people. It’s a way of life alien to so many people, usually they are happy to travel around Australia 4 times. Yet there is so much they can do if they just step out of their comfort zone. As some Greek philosopher said ‘The first step of any journey is always the hardest.’
Enough waffling: today we visited the Victoria Falls. Like The Taj Mahal, Uluru and the pyramids you know all about them, know there will be hordes of tourists, yet when you get there they are just awe inspiring. So much water channelling over so many parts of the 1.2km wide falls it is just breathtaking. Upstream where the water is more subdued we found a picnic table on the edge of the water. There was a sign saying a permit had to be acquired as that area was part of the national park. There were 2 guards there to police the rule. After asking them if it would be okay if we had a quick picnic lunch there the senior bloke thought a while and agreed. I think he wanted a bit of a bribe, but after we had eaten we made up a couple of sandwiches and took it over to them. Broad smiles broke out and we departed with everyone feeling a win/win situation had occurred.
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