16th April.

16th April. Mt Nebo
Don’t believe a word the Israeli’s say. We have been to the correct place where John the Baptist baptised Jesus. Or so the Jordanians reckon. They might have a point actually. In the bible there is talk about Bethany beyond the Jordan, well, since the peace agreement, they have been able to carry out excavations right on the border that has dug up ancient remains of buildings almost exactly in the spot the baptism was meant to have occurred. It’s about 300 metres east of the present path of the river but then rivers change course. Early travellers speak about the building with the four pillars as where it occurred, two of these pillars have been excavated so far. Being right on the present day border meant having to come to this area as part of a group with guide. I made the faux pas of asking the guide if that was Israel over there, ‘No, that is the Occupied Territory’ he said. ‘The correct border is 40 kilometres from the Mediterranean.’ I had forgotten that even with the peace agreement the border question still simmers.
It was an interesting tour, worthwhile coming back earlier on the 2nd day as 2.30pm in a heat wave is not the time to spend 90 minutes wandering around 400 metres below sea level.
We camped at Mt Nebo last night, a short distance from the Church of Moses. Parked behind this unfinished tourist complex, we looked over these ancient hills, some tiered others untouched. We ate tea outside for the first time this trip to the sound of sheep bells as the Bedouin shepherds brought their flocks back to the shelters for the night.
Later
Waiting at the border for Emma to cross over was a bit of an experience. I must admit it was more relaxed than 13 years ago when tension was still high and the only people to cross the border were the odd foreigner. At least the Palestinians have the right to cross the border now without to much hassle and we watched quite a few of their buses pulling in. Foreigners weren’t allowed on those buses but had to wait for the hourly ones to take them across. We parked outside the ‘Arrival’ doors deciding to make a cup of tea much to the amusement of the security guards standing around keeping an eye on things.
The idea was to head south to Aqaba after picking up Emma, it’s only 290ms south. But driving alongside the Dead Sea we changed our minds and headed back to Dana to take in an early morning walk. It’s a long way down the valley and I’m not sure I will last the 15km round trip especially when the last kilometre is a 1:1 gradient. It will be interesting.